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So before I can transplant anything into the soil mix, I like to get it wet with some compost tea to get the microbes working on breaking down those amendments and unlocking those nutrients. It would be ideal to give them a week or more head start in doing so. Two to three weeks being optimal but not necessary. Its not like a super soil where you have to wait a month for it too cool off, you just need to make sure its been good and wet when you plant to make sure there are no dry pockets and the available nutrients are able to be absorbed. Some brewing action, indoors no less  

It was pretty cold outside and its best to brew closest to where you will be using the tea so I did the easiest thing I could…



Inside the brewer, two heaters an airlift and a pvc whateveragon bubbler. I gathered the info on building brewers from microbeman’s website :



Ive used this set up in a number of different ways and locations, works great I would recommend it to anyone as a simple and cheap way to brew some quality compost teas.

The brewer getting warmed up for ingredients…




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Some of you are probably wondering whats in the tea.. I almost forgot, its microbemans recipe with my own adjustments:





2 liters green waste compost
2 liters quality earth worm castings
4 cups molasses
2 cups kelp meal
2 cups alfalfa meal
1/2 cup powdered soft rock phosphate
1/2 cup Glacial rock dust
1/2 cup pure protein dry 15-1-1
60 ml quality fish Hydrolysate( not emulsion) I use Organic Gem


So how does it smell?


for the first 8 hours it smelled a bit fishy, by morning when I came back in it smelled like sweet earthy goodness. The molasses takes over after the microbes get to work eating the funk.. Im certainly going to be doing more indoor brewing :)

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So after watering the awaiting transplants with ACT, and soaking the beds, the plants will be transplanted within 24 hours.



Finding their places...




Transplanted first day in beds




65 gallon pot gets 2 each



^^^^^^^^^^^ white stuff on leaf, mykos Azos for you Pete! must have brushed up against it while I was filling the holes.. I had a bag that was going to go bad, I had to use it, LOL

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I always forget to list that. Probably because I dont add it to the soil mix, but I do add it in the very first soil drench along with kelp extract and a very small amount of molasses. I do this right when I pot the clones into the black gold and again when I transplant into the beds but  only in the rootzone. The first wetting of the beds is with areated compost tea, Im about to get to that...


Here is what I use..They dont list the cfus on the site but they are on the bottle.. Ill post em when I get more time.




Contains concentrated spore mass of the following:

Endomycorrhizal fungi

Glomus intraradices, Glomus mosseae, Glomus aggregatum, Glomus monosporum, Glomus clarum, Glomus deserticola, Gigaspora margarita, Gigaspora brasilianum, Gigaspora etunicatum

Ectomycorrhizal fungi

Rhizopogon villosullus, Rhizopogon luteolus, Rhizopogon amylopogon, Rhizopogon fulvigleba, Pisolithus tinctorius, Scleroderma cepa, Scleroderma citrinum


Trichoderma harzianum, Trichoderma konigii

Beneficial Bacteria

Bacillus subtillus, Bacillus licheniformis, Bacillus azotoformans, Bacillus megaterium, Bacillus coagulans, Bacillus pumlis, Bacillus thuringiensis, Bacillus stearothermiphilis, Paenibacillus polymyxa, Paenibacillus durum, Paenibacillus florescence, Paenibacillus gordonae, Azotobacter polymyxa, Azotobacter chroococcum, Sacchromyces cervisiae, Streptomyces griseues, Streptomyces lydicus, Pseudomonas aureofaceans, Deinococcus erythromyxa





79.95 a pound?????  are you serious???????????????????????????????????????




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Two tablespoons does 12 gallons so it lasts a while unless you are doing acres with it...


I will gladly accept a sample of your myco mix and do a side by side and publish the results. If I can find something better and cheaper I will go with that option any day.  How does your stuff compare price wise? Show me some whats in it and in what amounts if you dont mind... No I have never tried honey, as it is expensive and its naturally anti microbial and antifungal to such degree its used as a preservative. Not sure how my microbial herd would like that...

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So after all that brewing you want to make sure your delivery is safe for your microbes to make it to their intended target may it be the rootzone or leaf surface. You may to want to take note of a few things that keep microbes alive on their journey from the brewer to the plant. Your pump if not the right type can be a death trap for a large portion of your hand fed microbial children. There are several types of pumps that will not harm the microbial life. Ill save myself some considerable time and carpal tunnel by sending you to where this idea originated for me.

Gardening Rythms Application Equipment

The site is informative although hard to navigate, if you dig youll find lots more good info. Read that then what Im making here and why may make more sense if you dont already grasp what Im talking about.

I use a diaphgram pump. This particular pump is on demand which means it builds line pressure then it stops until you call for it via pressing down the handle on your sprayer. Saves battery and needless cycling of tea through the pump, seen here:


Fimco High Flo Gold Series 2.1 G.P.M. starts at around 60$




This pump doesnt need to be submerged and runs off a rechargeabe battery. I can run this pump for about 14 hours of holding the handle down. I recharge way before it runs out...


Here is the battery I use. price around 40$



This battery was the only one they had at napa auto when I went to buy, not ideal but it works. Ideally you want one that is sealed and can withstand getting wet and laying on its side. This one has to remain up right, be refilled and be kept dry, so... I put it in a 5 gal bucket and drilled some hole to vent acid gasses generated by a hot battery. Two pieces of wood cut to wedge it in tight so it doesnt fall over. The clear tube is the acid overflow tube..







I placed a doubled up contractor bag over the bucket opening and then put the lid on. This way if the pump springs a leak the battery below doesnt get wet. I mounted the pump on top of the lid and attached non collapsible hoses 30ft on the output side, so you dont have to move the pump much if at all in a small area

 Quick connects can be your friend, although I prefer the hoses to screw on at the wand handle as I have not been able to find a quick connect that doesnt leak at this joint. Mostly due to the turning and constant pressure put on the wand by my hand. No sharp turns in your applicating wand or the impact can kill the microbes. Ive examined several tea batches in different pumps and wands before and after pass through under the microscope these have shown the best results in saving microbes. Sometimes I take the wand off all together and just use it as it come out of the handle.




best wand so far and easy to clean




I take scoops of tea with a 5 gal bucket out of the brewer and dump them into the holding tank that my pump connects to. I turn off my brewer about 2 min before I take a scoop so not to get too much debris. then I pour it into the holding take through a window screen I framed to fit the barrel. Also placing the output of the holding tank several inches off the bottom prevents you from pulling any debris into the pump that would stop the pump.

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Awesome looking setup bro! I bet it sure does beat the hell out of hand watering. Lol. I've found out the hard way that water is very heavy... I'll have to save some cash to invest in a nice irrigation system. I don't think my back can take anymore lugging around tons of water. Hehehe.

Anyways, the girls are looking very healthy and happy! Thanks for sharing bro!

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To me its still pretty much hand watering. Im sure it would take longer using just gravity and a watering can though, lol. Until I get drippers and water timers I still feel its hand watering. The way I water to minimize the amount of overflow out of the bottom I take the advice of Tom Hill. His recipe works well for me:


Tom Hill

As a rule of thumb I calculate a water volume of around 10% of soil volume per "maintenance" (normal) watering. Occasionally I'll do a light watering (5%) or a more thorough soaking (15%) but 10% is the "normal" watering once we are in maintenance mode.

So that would be 1/2 gallon water for a 5 gallon container. These 6 foot containers are up around 50 cubic feet or something over 300 gallons. This requires about 30 gallons per cycle.



To calculate how many gpm Im getting I use a stop watch and a 5 gal bucket and time how long it takes to fill. As Im watering each pot I use the stopwatch and keep track of the time so I know how many gallons Ive put in. Also making sure Im spreading the water out evenly over the dirt surface and using paced even strokes until its covered evenly, then repeat until the timer goes off.

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Here is one of my watering days.


Day 17 watering, 50 gal 

800 ml molasses,

65 ml Protekt,

350 ml kelp extract,

20 ml, Ej catalyst, 

therm x 70 1/4tsp per gallon

= ph 6.5 exactly



Foliar fed Calcium 25 a week earlier followed by root feeding the next day


molasses 1tbsp per gallon, therm x70 .25tsp per gallon
PureProteinDry 15-1-1   9 grams per gallon


Saw an amazing amount of growth by the next day. Literally 5-6 inches of new growth OVERNIGHT after those applications! I heard it was amazing stuff but never used it before. The Calcium 25 is a must have as is the PPD 15-1-1 amino acids WOW you need to try it.


Next time I apply it I will take before and after pics to document cause its impressive. Make sure your lights arent too high or they will stretch a bunch. Keep em low let em pack in.




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Lets talk about Brix readings for a min. Here are some links and PDFs on the subject. I working Brix meter is relativley cheap depending on how fancy you want to get. You can pay 12$-1500$ for a meter. The thing is even the cheap ones work well. I normally go for fancy digital meters but for the brix I started off with a cheap 25$ one from amazon. Gives me a look at the nutrient density of my plants. If they are lacking in overall nutrients the reading will be low.




Professor A. F. W. Brix was a 19th Century German chemist. He was the first to measure the density of plant juices by floating a hydrometer in them.

•BRIX is a measure of the percent solids (TSS) in a given weight of plant juice.

•BRIX is often expressed another way: BRIX equals the pounds of sucrose, fructose, vitamins, minerals, amino acids, proteins, and other solids in one hundred pounds of a particular plant juice.

•BRIX varies directly with plant QUALITY. For instance, a poor, sour tasting grape from worn out land can test 8 or less BRIX. A full flavored, delicious grape, grown on rich, fertile soil can test 24 or better BRIX. Similarly, the tasteless, almost bitter cantaloupe from the salad bar cannot be compared to the 18 Brix delight coming from the well-tended garden. All fruits & vegetables are subject to the same laws.

Please remember that sugar is only one of the components of Brix. Also understand that many substances can give “false” Brix readings. For instance, try rubbing alcohol, whiskey, vinegar, or wine. Cooking oil, molasses, syrup, and other thick liquids require a refractometer calibrated to read 30-90 Brix. Honey is checked with a refractometer calibrated to measure the water within it instead of the solids in the water. NO---a thousand times no---Brix is not sugar! You can prove it to yourself by, say, putting a teaspoon of sugar in some ordinary orange juice. It will NOT taste better.




Brix Questions and Answers



How to grow superb biological produce above & beyond ordinary chemical OR organic agriculture


OK, if you've read the Brix pages you're now aware of the true nature of quality in terms of fruits & vegetables. Typically, the next question is "How can I grow produce to better standards?" My research found many ways. One of the most simple is to apply liberal amounts of top-quality compost to one's "patch." That, of course, implies one can produce "top-quality" compost. As you'll soon see, almost all compost has to be doctored to improve its inherent quality.
Why would not just any old compost be top-quality? A little thought reveals several answers. One is that if you're using compost made from ordinary low-quality plants and garden waste, the end product will be low-quality. Another thought is that if you're using low-quality manure then you can, at best, expect low-quality compost.
"Low-quality" manure? Yes! All manure is by its very nature low-quality. How could it be otherwise? If it came from an animal---any animal---then that animal's digestive system had to have mined out all, or most, of the elements needed to maintain the animal's health. The manure, then, is nothing but unusable waste. That is not to say that plants don't appear to thrive on ordinary manure. They will grow lush and green on manure. But the growth is low Brix and low Brix is low quality. That is what excess nitrogen does to plants. However, our goal is to grow higher quality plants, not just more of the low quality junk that so dominates modern agriculture.
Perhaps an old farmer saying can help here: "You can't put 10 Brix alfalfa in one end of a cow and expect to get 20 Brix milk out the other."


Over a hundred years ago, Julius Hensel, a German chemist, who also owned a grist mill, discovered that the dust from ground up stones had the ability to vastly improve the quality of plants. His book, Bread From Stones, has been reprinted and is serving as a major inspiration for modern farmers who want to look beyond the simplistic nature of chemical agriculture, along with its attendant soil destruction.
Hensel's discovery was carried forward in the 1970s by John Hamaker, a retired engineer, who made healthy agriculture his second career. Hamaker's prescription for worn out, dry, failing soil is simple in the extreme: gravel dust will do the job. Hamaker's book, The Survival of Civilization carefully documents the astounding inprovements in quality AND quantity that are possible in fully remineralized agricultural soils.
Yes, although there are other methods, one answer for larger scale agricultural operations is to remineralize, i.e, to spread ground rock on the fields (or add it to their compost) so as to improve next year's crops. Given time, this is also the ideal way to improve the quality of garden output. However, time is not always available. Most people who first start using a refractometer to measure Brix are astounded---exasperated---to realize that what they thought was truly good produce is not so good after all. They want something done now!
The answer for many farmers and gardeners is to simply experiment by feeding the growing plant with various sprayed-on fertility elements. For instance, the concerned gardener may try a dilute solution of fish or seaweed (or both). If, indeed, the plant gains Brix they know they have hit on something. If the Brix remains the same---or drops---they know they must keep searching. And the search may not be as difficult as they think: manufacturers around the world are constantly developing soil & foliar applied products that can raise Brix---often dramatically.
However, let nothing said here make you think that you can take, say, a tomato plant loaded with green tomatoes and magically move them from 6 Brix to 16 Brix immediately before ripening. Your efforts will be most rewarded when you acknowledge the needs of that baby tomato seedling---and continue to do so at each of its stages. This is exactly why "Doctor" Pike (as I now teasingly call him) devotes so much effort to perfecting the tissue test methods detailed on these pages.
Dr. Carey Reams, who is given full credit for developing the Brix=Quality concept, spoke on his deathbed of the help he had received from the mentioned Bob Pike, of Pike Agri-Lab in Strong, Maine. Reams' widow even today speaks glowingly of how Reams said that his scientific testing mantle should be passed to Pike.

Several years back I decided to get to know Pike better and it proved a fruitful experience. In the years since Reams passed (1985), embedded computers have allowed the development of test instruments that now equip the informed crop consultant to literally carry in his pocket what once required a rather good sized laboratory.
Pike has not been idle for those years---far from it. As you will see in the pages that follow, he has refined and further developed Reams' concepts to the point that an equipped consultant can deliver real-time answers to vexing agricultural problems. However, even though the procedures are rapidly spreading among in-the-know crop consultants, Pike's modesty prevents him from claiming this is the ultimate answer. Instead, if you'll read carefully, you can almost hear him saying, "These procedures can help guide you to what you must do to create higher quality crops." By the way, if any Australian readers are here, they may want to review the Nutri-Tech webpages to see how the Reams/Pike methods are being utilized "down under." Nutri-Tech currently has over 7,000 farmers following their programs.
As you read, try to keep a thought in mind: these procedures are neither "organic" nor are they "chemical"---they are plant oriented. In other words, if the plant indicates (via a Brix gain) that it has benefited from a substance (whether that substance be "organic" or "chemical"), then that substance is what the plant needs to thrive better. There will be many times that one or more of the elements of ordinary N-P-K chemical fertilizer are exactly what the plant indicates it needs, but that in no way invalidates the need for COMPLETE fertilization.
The former fact dooms many well-meaning "organic" growers (who may ignore the plant's true needs so as to follow philosophical rules) to hopelessly flounder with low-quality crops (along with the insects & disease that such quality engenders). The latter thought, just as harmful, keeps many a mainline farmer from producing a high quality output. They'll both flounder until they learn to listen to their crops.
Rex Harrill 7/22/00





Plant Tissue Test Instructions From Pike Agri-Lab Supplies, Inc. Introduction: This method of plant sap analysis is relatively new. Sap is squeezed from the fresh plant tissue and analyzed for Brix, pH and EC. Data collected can be used as a tool in fertility management. Please note that the information contained here is preliminary. Although research continues in the area of plant sap analysis, little interpretation data is available. Over a period of time, it is recommended that a grower establish his own data, based on analysis results, fertilizer applications and crop response. Recommended tools:
•    A TC-1e    Refractometer

•   Cardy Twin pH Tester

•    Cardy Twin EC Tester

•    Infra-Red Heat Gun
•    Plant Juice Extractor (modified vise grips)

•    Carrying Case & Instructions

The following outline shows how you may be able to make improvements, based on the teachings of Carey Reams:
•    At the end of a growing season, lightly incorporate that year’s organic matter into the top layers of the soil along with a complete nutrient and microbe package.


•    Perform a soil test that evaluates the availability of major plant nutrients. •    Add nutrients in order to balance the major nutrients during fall or spring.


•    Make sure that the soil contains proper levels of air, water, and organic matter, so that the microbes can build humus to satisfy the needs of the plants.

•    Test the plant sap as soon as leaves are large enough to squeeze several drops of juice for testing. Perform the following tests to determine the needs of plants at any time during the season or at any growth-stage:


•    Total dissolved solids (or Brix), measured with the ATC-1e Refractometer. This number indicates the level of balance of nutrient uptake and complexing into sugars or proteins in the photosynthesis factory – the leaf. If Brix is low, even after several hours of sunshine, some element(s) are missing in the photosynthesis factory. Ions, if
present, have not been "complexed" into sugars or proteins.


•    pH, measured with the Cardy pH Twin Meter, indicates elements, which may be out of balance. For pH<6.4, consider if there is a need for Ca, Mg, K, or Na. For pH>6.4, consider possible need for phosphates or sulfates. If the proper elements are selected and applied, the Brix reading will increase and the pH will go to the desired




Are there Brix detractors?  But of course there are!  What should you expect if something so simple came along and shook YOUR toxic chemical agriculture house of cards to its very foundation. 

For instance, several years ago a California State University researcher conducted a "fair" evaluation of Brix in regards to grape leafhopper control.  His conclusion: "no difference."

Interestingly, even a high-schooler could read his paper and notice that he conducted his "tests" at 9 Brix.  He failed to mention that all Brix advocates insist you must maintain 12 Brix in the leaf to gain leaf sucking insect control.

University "research" programs have been bought, lock, stock, and barrel, by the toxic chemical industry.  Would YOU pay for a report that could cost you billions of dollars in sales?



Why get caught up in the plant disease "game"?  You could spend a lifetime studying diagnosis, pathology, and other silliness only to know as little when you ended as when you started.

Why not accept that bacterial & fungal "attacks" are nothing more than nature sending her clean-up crews to remove malnourished tissues from the scene?

It's a lot easier to learn mineral balancing and appropriate fertilizing than to memorize endless lists of "diseases" and their associated toxic chemical "cures."

The kicker in the "kill the disease" scenario is that every time the public gets wise to toxic chemical failures, something yet more destructive must be brought out from the lab with much fanfare: "this time we really do have the answer---honest."




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Tools needed:( note you will actually need a few more leaves than what is pictured.)




Check calibration with distilled water to make sure it reads 0





Balled up in put into garlic press. ((note I broke the handle on this 15$ garlic press Id advise using a solid metal one or maybe some sort of modified vise grips))




Squeeze out as few drops into a small bowl and add to the refractometer plate make sure there are no bubbles in the sample, hold up to the light, peep through. Here is the reading I got







Growing Big Plants thread

Tom Hill :


"12 degrees brix is a good reading on the refractometer for cannabis."


I have heard from a good friend that he has acheived 24 on his brix readings, he claimed his plants take on a blue green hue and are lush but not like an over abundance of N lush. I have yet to attain such results. For now Im happy with my 11ish reading :P

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Interesting and involved readings H.O.! Maybe too involved.. Lol. Man.. We need to work out some sort of internship. LOL! Teach me your ways! Great work as always bro. Keep us updated. Thanks!

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Interesting and involved readings H.O.! Maybe too involved.. Lol. Man.. We need to work out some sort of internship. LOL! Teach me your ways! Great work as always bro. Keep us updated. Thanks!

Too involved? Depends on your level of dedication/ passion I guess.  Cannabis is my passion. Its what I love, its what we need. The only passion I have with an equal flame outside of my family and growing food, is Fungi. IMO equally as amazing with potential to change the world as well. Internship? Nah, Im a student at the University of the Universe myself, just trying to share what Ive gathered along the way. Still a  long ways from a professor heck even a graduate.  Im still an embryo. :P

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Big co op? 24 plants is only one grower/patient with 3 cards +their self. This grow is 24 plants. The co op has the potential to do 96, but nobody wants to max out just because we can. To remain legit we only take on truly sick patients that have been well interviewed and selected over time as truly in need. We dont normally even take donations for the people we care for. To our patients their needed meds are free as well as oils and medibles. We are in it to heal the sick, not get rich and bend the law. Only the best growers who truly care about what they are doing are going to be around after everything goes 100% legal. We intend to be those kind of people.



In Love and Light,


Holistic Healing

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Interesting and involved readings H.O.! Maybe too involved.. Lol. Man.. We need to work out some sort of internship. LOL! Teach me your ways! Great work as always bro. Keep us updated. Thanks!

Too involved? Depends on your level of dedication/ passion I guess.  Cannabis is my passion. Its what I love, its what we need. The only passion I have with an equal flame outside of my family and growing food, is Fungi. IMO equally as amazing with potential to change the world as well. Internship? Nah, Im a student at the University of the Universe myself, just trying to share what Ive gathered along the way. Still a  long ways from a professor heck even a graduate.  Im still an embryo. :P



Yeah, that is what I meant... Too involved for me as of right now. lol. I am only a Newb, and I can barely keep my plants alive! lol. And about the internship, yeah I was just messin' with you bro. lol. Just keep up the awesome work and feed us your widespread knowledge please!


Take care n Jah bless mon. ;)

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