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popeye!

Popeye's cloning method

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Lol ya but.not everyone can afford ez cloners OG lol I notices u got a few lol just a cheap method for people on a budget that need good results lol I had a bucket version of a easy cloner once tho

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I use a similar method too. Some strains are just tuff to propogate. It all depends on how many clones are needed. i have lost several rounds in aero-units due to heat, pathogens, root rot, etc. Honestly using plugs, rockwool, rapid rooters, etc, are a sure fire way to og.

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I basicly do the same thing but I use rockwool. I soak it in a 5.5 ph solution of Power clone from Botanicare. I also use vita grow liquid rooting hormone, and vita grow anti-wilt. I rarely score or shave off the outer layer of the stems unless they are a woody, or tough to root strain. One thing that keeps it rolling is taking a healty cut. I prune and train my Mother plants very stratigicaly so as to continualy produce quality clones. I only take top growing shoots as they are the most vigerous, and I take the cut from a branch just above a double node if possible. This not only tops your mother, but if you pay attention and follow a system, every clone will start out as a double or a triple making a seriously bushy plant :). Not all plants have the structure for that though, lol. I also like to take at least a 6 inch cut with a good top and a minimum of 2 developed branches.

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Yeah see I tried the rockwool and wasn't a fan of that method I'm not big on hydro growing or hydro methods I personally found better results this route then with rockwool and not everyone has Ph.meters to dial that in for rockwool so.someone.could have high Ph water and have horrible results

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The great thing about growing tho.is everyone has there own techniques and there own methods and it seems everyone finds there comfort spot and as long as ur happy with ur outcome that's the most important part

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    I have a few things to add, and a myth to bust. Hope you dont take offense Popeye, Im not picking on you. This place is about learning and sharing.

There are many ways to do the same task. Your method obviously works. Infact that is how I used to do it to and how I was originally taught when I first started growing..

    First off, the thing about too many lower branches or leaves taking energy away from the cut, just isnt so.

 

What does your plant to when you dont feed it enough, or your soil is lacking in nutrients??

It takes nutrients from the lower old growth leaves and takes it to the new shoots, same applies with your cuttings. I leave two sets of leaves sometimes more and I make my cuts LARGE. Why start with a tiny cut? Do you want it to grow into a small plant that lacks vigor?  Large cut = Large rooted clone, ultimately a large healthy plant with vigor.  I always grow more moms than I need so I can take only the best cuts. I take more cuts than I need so I can keep only the most healthy and vigorous. Taking cuts from the bottom of the plant gives you the best rooting success as that is where the oldest hormones reside. I like woody stems and I  prefer to only use the main lower branch, no lateral side shoots. The higher up the plant you take the cut the longer it will take to root. Also by only taking the main branch ends you can get uniform plant size and equal growth rates making your canopy all the same height. 6 inch cuts are  ok, I go for 9-10 inches. My cuts pretty much touch the tops of the dome in some most cases. If you feed your moms plenty of potassium silicate (silicon) during their cycle your cuts/clones wont mold. The speed at which the cuts make roots is directly related to the health and nutrient levels of the parent they come off of. Low phosphorus mothers make cuts that take forever to root, make sure your moms are healthy as possible. Rooting hormones and cloning gels are a waste of money. You can have the same results using plain water, if your moms are dialed in. If you really want to give them a hand in making roots provide them with the precursors to do so. Stack your moms up with nutrients, but don't burn them,  hit your moms with fulvic acid in form of foliar spray 2 days before taking cuts and make sure you have fed her plenty of potassium silicate for her entire life cycle. After you take cuts and have them in domes hit them with a foliar feed of yucca extract and fulvic acid, soak those babies and dome em back up. I know some people like to use small plugs, Im the opposite, I like to use the largest ones I can find. I use these

http://www.ihort.com/flyers/QPlugFlyer.pdf

40/80
1.875” x 3.0”

 

 

I get them with the trays and also get a larger dome with them.

fyi..You don't have to get a case of 800 they do custom orders as well..


Here is a recipe that works well to organically stimulate rooting and its WAY cheap compared to the gels and miracle rooting juices.

 


Taken from Clackamas Cootz over at ICMAG

 

"Cloning Mix
Here's what I've devolved to on the rooting process - ain't much.

1 gallon of clear water
1 oz. of BioAg Fulvic acid
2 oz. Aloe vera extract
1 tsp. Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt

I take the RapidRooters (the brand - not a knockoff not that it matters a single iota) and soak them for 'some period of time' which is usually when I remember that they're still sitting in the solution.

I take them and 'gently' squeeze out excess water/solution.

Take a 'glass' glass with the same solution and stick the cuttings in there and let them sit overnight. Next morning I stick them into the plugs, mist the inside of the clear dome and put them next to a sliding glass door.

That's it…."

 




Another Note :
Bleaching anything IMO isn't good. Bleach contains dioxins and dioxins cause cancer, and we are making medicine for sick people. If you want to clean with something use 34% hydrogen peroxide from the grow store and dilute that to proper strength(3-5%)and use that . At least it wont leave any harmful residues that kill microbes and or cause cancer.

Tried finding a pic of my clones while rooting and I don't think I have one, but I do have a picture of them at day one, right after I put them in the dirt and fed them a fulvic foliar. Loging data for adjustments later I keep things like this handy. ;)

 

 

 

A final note, cloning and planting for that matter all do better in accordance with the moon cycles. Plant/ take clones on the new moon when the moon begins to wax. Harvest during the 3 days up to the full moon for heavier yields. To put it simply, the moon moves the ocean and controls the tides. Pushing and pulling h20. You can figure out the rest.  Lots of Love and respect to you Popeye! Thanks for sharing your methods and taking the time to put it all together, much appreciated.

 

With Respect,

 

Holistic Organics

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Lots of GREAT info posted up here. I honestly take all my cuts from the tops of the plants because they just root faster for me. I have rooted in every medium known to man with various results. All of them worked to some degree, and some were simply more consistant and had better results.

 

I like the rockwool because they do not tip over, lol. and they hold enough water that I do not need to mist the plants or water them. I just put them in a dome and call it good.

 

The rapid rooters, and the knock off versions work well, but they tip over. They do have a tray insert to hold them which is cool, but IMO, it is to tight and squeezes the needed moisture out of them when you put them into it. Hence, creating the need to water them. Another added step.

 

I soak all my medium with a 5.5---5.8 solution. Why?, because that ph seems to work well. Even if the solution is just water, I keep it at a 5.5---5.8. I personaly use Power clone as a solution. The point for me is to have nutrients ready for those roots as they first appear. I chose that brand because I am happy with the rest of thier line up of products. But my point is having those nutrients ready when the plants need them. Nothing more.

 

I have purchased and used every brand of aero cloner on the market. They all do the same thing. The point is to create 100% humidity in the rez at the right temp with the right PH. Creating an optimal enviroment will put on roots. In my experiences, a fogger is the best way to do it. I have ran them with every solution known to man in them down to just plain water. It is all about the enviroment IMO. I have a very nice top of the line E-Z cloner with a built in chiller and a temp, ph, and ppm monitor attached to it and it works very well, but so does the rockwool, lol. I do not have a degree in botany, nor do I have a labratory, but what I DO have is years of experience doing side by side tests under different controled enviroments and the results from that. There are alot of ways to get the same results and I feel a grower just needs to experience as many ways as they can and do what works for them. I know folks that swear by the aeroponic cloners, and I know others that had horrible results. Temp is the factor there. To warm of a solution or water, will cook them and or host a perfect enviroment for bacterial infection. I have had roots develop in 72 hours on an aero cloner. I have also cooked 3 runs in a row before too.

 

One thing I want to point out is that anyone that is growing needs to have a PH meter. Some people say they are too expensive, but thats BS in my book. You can get them online for $50. IMHO, what is TOO expensive is purchasing soil, nutrients, paying for electricity and then gambling on the results and setting yourself up for problems. You will save alot more money by securing what you would lose in yeild and quality than the cost of a meter. Why not just dial in your method from the begining?

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For my method I have tried it every different possible way with all.kinds of variables rapid rooters were less effective at rooting clones then root riots I have found rod riots consistently have better results and honestly I don't clone like Any of u guys I never keep a mother plant all of my clones are taken from the bottom of the.plant typically. As I need to save the tops for the big.buds when it goes to the flower room so 90% of the time.my.clones are.all taken from lower and I have Had great success rate with my method I have tried trimming the leaves to make the clone have less leaves and found that clones with more leave are slower to root in my multiple experiments and I have also found shaving the. stem properly promotes roots faster then if I don't have it shaved so my method is wat works for me I never worry about loosing a strain using my method and I always keep the one to root fastest and use that for my next batch.of clones I believe selective breeding is key in maintaining strong genetics

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Lol I said.selective breeding I meant selective.cloning and I don't use rockwool because I've experienced plants dying from root rot multiple times that was my first method try of cloning I tried cup.cloning and I like IT but its not as effective as the method I'm using now and the method I currently use takes up alot less space then.cup cloning

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well everyone has their own way of doing things as I mentioned before... Although understanding plant science can influence your methodology. So maybe some references will help clear up what Im saying.

 

From Marijuana Botany

 

 

Rooting
A knowledge of the internal structure of the stem is helpful in understanding the origin of adventitious roots.
The development of adventitious roots can be broken down into three stages:

(1) the initiation of meristematic cells located just outside and between the vascular bundles (the root initials),

(2) the differentiation of these meristematic cells into root primordia, and

(3) the emergence and growth of new roots by rupturing old stem tissue and establishing vascular connections with the shoot.


As the root initials divide, the groups of cells take on the appearance of a small root tip. A vascular system forms with the adjacent vascular bundles and the root continues to grow outward through the cortex until the tip emerges from the epidermis of the stem. Initiation of root growth usually begins within a week and young roots appear within four weeks. Often an irregular mass of white cells, termed callus tissue, will form on the surface of the stem adjacent to the areas of root initiation. This tissue has no influence on root formation. However, it is a form of regenerative tissue and is a sign that conditions are favorable for root initiation.


The physiological basis for root initiation is well understood and allows many advantageous modifications of rooting systems. Natural plant growth substances such as auxins, cytokinins, and gibberellins are certainly responsible for the control of root initiation and the rate of root formation. Auxins are considered the most influential. Auxins and other growth substances are involved in the control of virtually all plant processes: stem growth, root formation, lateral bud inhibition, floral maturation, fruit development, and determination of sex. Great care is exercised in application of artificial growth substances so that detrimental conflicting reactions in addition to rooting do not occur. Auxins seem to affect most related plant species in the same way, but the mechanism of this action is not yet fully understood.


Many synthetic compounds have been shown to have auxin activity and are commercially available, such as napthaleneacetic acid (NAA), indolebutyric acid (IBA), and 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4 DPA), but only indoleacetic acid has been isolated from plants. Naturally occurring auxin is formed mainly in the apical shoot men stem and young leaves. It moves downward after its formation at the growing shoot tip, but massive concentrations of auxins in rooting solutions will force travel up the vascular tissue. Knowledge of the physiology of auxins has led to practical applications in rooting cuttings. It was shown originally by Went and later by Thimann and Went that auxins promote adventitious root formation in stem cuttings. Since application of natural or synthetic auxin seems to stimulate adventitious root formation in many plants, it is assumed that auxin levels are associated with the formation of root initials. Further research by Warmke and Warmke (1950) suggested that the levels of auxin may determine whether adventitious roots or shoots are formed, with high auxin levels promoting root growth and low levels favoring shoots.


Cytokinins are chemical compounds that stimulate cell growth. In stem cuttings, cytokinins suppress root growth and stimulate bud growth. This is the opposite of
the reaction caused by auxins, suggesting that a natural balance of the two may be responsible for regulating normal plant growth. Skoog discusses the use of solutions of equal concentrations of auxins and cytokinins to pro mote the growth of undifferentiated callus tissues. This may provide a handy source of undifferentiated material for cellular cloning.
Although Cannabis cuttings and layers root easily, variations in rootability exist and old stems may resist rooting. Selection of rooting material is highly important. Young, firm, vegetative shoots, 3 to 7 millimeters (1/8 to 1⁄4 inch) in diameter, root most easily. Weak, unhealthy plants are avoided, along with large woody branches and reproductive tissues, since these are slower to root. Stems of high carbohydrate content root most easily. Firmness is a sign of high carbohydrate levels in stems but may be confused with older woody tissue. An accurate method of determining the carbohydrate content of cuttings is the iodine starch test. The freshly cut ends of a bundle of cuttings are immersed in a weak solution of iodine in potassium iodide. Cuttings containing the highest starch content stain the darkest; the samples are rinsed and sorted accordingly. High nitrogen content cuttings seem to root more poorly than cuttings with medium to low nitrogen content. Therefore, young, rapidly-growing stems of high nitrogen and low carbohydrate content root less well than slightly older cuttings. For rooting, sections are selected that have ceased elongating and are beginning radial growth. Staminate plants have higher average levels of carbohydrates than pistillate plants, while pistillate plants exhibit higher nitrogen levels. It is unknown whether sex influences rooting, but cuttings from vegetative tissue are taken just after sex determination while stems are still young. For rooting cloning stock or parental plants, the favorable balance (low nitrogen-to-high carbohydrate) is achieved in several ways:


1 - Reduction of the nitrogen supply will slow shoot growth and allow time for carbohydrates to accumulate. This can be accomplished by leaching (rinsing the soil with large amounts of fresh water), withholding nitrogenous fertilizer, and allowing stock plants to grow in full sun light. Crowding of roots reduces excessive vegetative growth and allows for carbohydrate accumulation.


2 - Portions of the plant that are most likely to root are selected. Lower branches that have ceased lateral growth and begun to accumulate starch are the best. The carbohydrate-to-nitrogen ratio rises as you move away from the tip of the limb, so cuttings are not made too short.


3 - Etiolation is the growth of stem tissue in total darkness to increase the possibility of root initiation. Starch levels drop, strengthening tissues and fibers begin to soften, cell wall thickness decreases, vascular tissue is diminished, auxin levels rise, and undifferentiated tissue begins to form. These conditions are very
conducive to the initiation of root growth. If the light cycle can be con trolled, whole plants can be subjected to etiolation, but usually single limbs are selected for cloning and wrapped for several inches just above the area where the cutting will be taken. This is done two weeks prior to rooting. The etiolated end may then be unwrapped and inserted into the rooting medium. Various methods of layers and cuttings rooted below soil level rely in part on the effects of etiolation.


4 - Girdling a stem by cutting the phloem with a knife or crushing it with a twisted wire may block the downward mobility of carbohydrates and auxin and rooting cofactors, raising the concentration of these valuable components of root initiation above the girdle.


Making Cuttings
Cuttings of relatively young vegetative limbs 10 to 45 centimeters (4 to 18 inches) are made with a sharp knife or razor blade and immediately placed in a container of clean, pure water so the cut ends are well covered. It is essential that the cuttings be placed in water as soon as they are removed or a bubble of air (embolism) may enter the cut end and block the transpiration stream in the cutting, causing it to wilt. Cuttings made under water avoid the possibility of an embolism. If cuttings are exposed to the air they are cut again before being inserted into the rooting medium.
The medium should be warm and moist before cuttings are removed from the parental plant. Rows of holes are made in the rooting medium with a tapered stick, slightly larger in diameter than the cutting, leaving at least 10 centimeters (4 inches) between each hole. The cuttings are removed from the water, the end to be rooted treated with growth regulators and fungicides (such as Rootone F or Hormex), and each cutting placed in its hole. The cut end of the shoot is kept at least 10 centimeters (4 inches) from the bottom of the medium. The rooting medium is lightly tamped around the cutting, taking care not to scrape off the growth regulators. During the first few days the cuttings are checked frequently to make sure every thing is working properly. The cuttings are then watered with a mild nutrient solution once a day.


Hardening-off
The cuttings usually develop a good root system and will be ready to transplant in three to six weeks. At this time the hardening-off process begins, preparing the delicate cuttings for a life in bright sunshine. The cuttings are removed and transplanted to a sheltered spot such as a greenhouse until they begin to grow
on their own. It is necessary to water them with a dilute nutrient solution or feed with finished compost as soon as the hardening-off process begins. Young roots are very tender and great care is necessary to avoid damage. When vegetative cuttings are placed outside under the prevailing photoperiod they will react accordingly. If it is not the proper time of the year for the cuttings to grow and mature properly (near harvest time, for example) or if it is too cold for them to be put out, then they may be kept in a vegetative condition by supplementing their light to increase daylength. Alternatively they may be induced to flower indoors under artificial conditions.
After shoots are selected and prepared for cloning, they are treated and placed in the rooting medium. Since the discovery in 1984 that auxins such as IAA stimulate the production of adventitious roots, and the subsequent discovery that the application of synthetic auxins such as NAA increase the rate of root production, many new techniques of treatment have appeared. It has been found that mixtures of growth regulators are often more effective than one alone. IAA and NAA a—e often combined with a small percentage of certain phenoxy compounds and fungicides in commercial preparations. Many growth regulators deteriorate rapidly, and fresh solutions are made up as needed. Treatments with vitamin B1 (thiamine) seem to help roots grow, but no inductive effect has been noticed. As soon as roots emerge, nutrients are necessary; the shoot cannot maintain growth for long on its own reserves. A complete complement of nutrients in the rooting medium certainly helps root growth; nitrogen is especially beneficial. Cuttings are extremely susceptible to fungus attack, and conditions conducive to rooting are also favorable to the growth of fungus. "Cap tan " is a long-lasting fungicide that is sometimes applied in powdered form along with growth regulators. This is done by rolling the basal end of the cutting in the powder before placing it in the rooting medium.


Oxygen and Rooting
The initiation and growth of roots depends upon atmospheric oxygen. If oxygen levels are low, shoots may fail to produce roots and rooting will certainly be inhibited. It is very important to select a light, well-aerated rooting medium. In addition to natural aeration from the atmosphere, rooting media may be enriched with oxygen (02) gas; enriched rooting solutions have been shown to increase rooting in many plant species. No threshold for damage by excess oxygenation has been determined, although excessive oxygenation could displace carbon dioxide which is also vital for proper root initiation and growth. If oxygen levels are low, roots will form only near the surface of the medium, whereas with adequate oxygen levels, roots will tend to form along the entire length of the implanted shoot, especially at the cut end.
Oxygen enrichment of rooting media is fairly simple. Since shoot cuttings must be constantly wetted to ensure proper rooting, aeration of the rooting media may be facilitated by aerating the water used in irrigation. Mist systems achieve this
automatically because they deliver a fine mist (high in dissolved oxygen) to the leaves, from where much of it runs off into the soil, aiding rooting. Oxygen enrichment of irrigation water is accomplished by installing an aerator in the main water line so that atmospheric oxygen can be absorbed by the water. An increase in dissolved oxygen of only 20 parts per million may have a great influence on rooting. Aeration is a convenient way to add oxygen to water as it also adds carbon dioxide from the atmosphere. Air from a small pump or bottled oxygen may also be supplied directly to the rooting media through tiny tubes with pin holes, or through a porous stone such as those used to aerate aquariums.


Rooting Media
Water is a common medium for rooting. It is inexpensive, disperses nutrients evenly, and allows direct observation of root development. However, several problems arise. A water medium allows light to reach the submerged stem, delaying etiolation and slowing root growth. Water also promotes the growth of water molds and other fungi, sup ports the cutting poorly, and restricts air circulation to the young roots. In a well aerated solution, roots will appear in great profusion at the base of the stem, while in a poorly aerated or stagnant solution only a few roots will form at the surface, where direct oxygen exchange occurs. If rootings are made in pure water, the solution might be replaced regularly with tap water, which should contain sufficient oxygen for a short period. If nutrient solutions are used, a system is needed to oxygenate the solution. The nutrient solution does become concentrated by evaporation, and this is watched. Pure water is used to dilute rooting solutions and refill rooting containers.

 

IME when taking clones higher up the plant they root a few days up to a week behind the lower branches. They still root, just a bit slower is all. When my moms are dialed Im plugging those clones in soil on day 8- 9. Taking two weeks to get roots IMO is a long time. We should do a side by side no hormones, just water clone log, collect some hard data on the subject.

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I just did a test with.my male I got the two top.most branches the two bottom most and then two other strongest side branches so ill test again this.method in.my method.of.cloning I also believe lower cuts root faster

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Good stuff. The thing about doing a side by side is the enviroments are different in each place. A side by side in my rooms may have different results in say your rooms. I know I take a ton of clones on a regular basis for the group here so I am down to try anything when it comes to rooting them, lol. We have like 26 strains in the mothers room right now, off the hook, lol.

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And ya that's true og everyone has there room set up.differently there's those variables to.consider the thing I love about.my.method so far everyone.that's tried it has.converted to it fully for.cloning and it seems to do well in every garden I get one set up in almost every new patient I work with this.is.how.I.teach.them to.clone exactly how I.did.my step.by step and they have had great success with no.experience that's the other thing I love being able to see people self.sufficient its a truely beautiful thing

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Glad lots.of.people.will be able to gather all.of this great info we have packs into.this thread it should be very helpful for people new that know nothing about.cloning thankz everyone for the great input ur input is what makes this a successful post

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also you dont absoulutly need root riots or rapid rooters.... cannabis will take root just fine with most any soil or soilless medium provided that the cuts stay moist, warm and have enought light to photosynthesize..


suffering within yourself, and the truth leaves you dying alone. The pain behind the eyes has a destiny, so use the hate to fuel the fire inside,. choices leave you trapped, and every route you choose is a path that leads back to the start. you might accept defeat in a world out to get you, but the finger on the trigger is yours.

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Thank you for sharing this info. Very informative.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


@1biggimp ( twitter). BangKokWok (XBox 360)

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Yes kpin ur right u don't need root riots to.clone this thread is called Popeye's cloning method this.is how I do my thing and if anyone would like to try my method all the information needed is in the thread so for my method of cloning u do need root riots otherwise its not my method u see

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yea all different rooms but if you do this experiement 10 times in your room your data will tell you whats what. Then combined with all the other people who do it multiple times we can gather enough data to come to a solid conclusion, despite the different environments.

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Exactly so I put the information there to be used if people want to try my method there's lots of other good info in this thread about cloning so by the time someone is done reading this they will have enough knowledge to be able to decide if they want to try my method or not this will personally be.my method.for a long time I don't plan on changing anytime soon if anything I would just get a seedling heating.mat to make my success rate and speed of.rooting even faster

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OOne.more note on this.if u.go to a grow.shop and they try to sell u rapid rooters those are.not wat u want the whole in the top is way to big and has a.bad success rate so if they tell u rapid rooters and root riots are the same thing this is infact not true as I have used both and had much better consistent results with root riots compared to rapid rooters so.avoid rapid rooters if u want to follow my method thankz for reading again I know its pretty long but I wanted to be.thorough

 

 

 Hey Bro , Rapid Rooters work perfectly fine if you flip them over and make your own insert . They will stand as well using this method and I always make sure to state this when selling them to a customer , even if they dont ask I simply share the knowledge in hope that it will be passed on .. 

  

 

 Many people have lost clones yes due to this issue but most were not informed properly from the get go , Rapid Rooters have been around a while and are aimed at all of the Agricultural industry in general . Root Riots are made by Hydrodynamics international and are marketed at the Cannabis grower from the get go as all of there other products are .. 

 

 Good company to support as well , especially for those of us who Reside in Michigan as they have a division here and it supports a few Michigan families to say the least .. 


Manifesting Sacred Dreams and Invocating spirits while incarnating them all into Mother Earths Genetics -PeacePipe's Smoking Dreams-

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