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Tentoes1962

Starting a small indoor grow.....

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Not sure if it is the camera or the lighting, but your buds look incredibly green as, in chlorophyll green. How do we remove chlorophyll from cannabis? Properly drying and curing--flushing does very little to improve bud quality.

 

Unless your grow medium is rockwool, flushing (running water through a plant's root ball to change pH or media electrical conductivity (EC)) does very little to improve the quality of buds. 

https://www.cannabisbusinesstimes.com/article/white-ash-vs-black-ash/

https://www.rxgreentechnologies.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/FlushingTimes_TrialReport.pdf

 

As for drying and curing, I am in the 65%/65 degree drying camp (10-14 days and wait until stems "snap") and in the 2-3+ week cure camp.

For Ed's method--https://www.edrosenthal.com/the-guru-of-ganja-blog/drying-and-curing-cannabis-the-art-of-enhancing-effect-and-flavor

 

So, if your buds dried fast and were not cured, then I guarantee harsh smoke.

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No they are only now going into the curing jars.....BTW I smoke this on a daily basis and it has really no taste at all....no harshness (unless you take an insane hard hit) and no hay taste....but then no “fruity” or “sweet” flavors either.  

 

Anyway all of these buds still are to be cured.

 

Also I have been trying to make a small temp/humidity circuit (that mounts on a curing jar lid) to digitally display the temp and humidity but I am buggering something up when I solder the pieces together, I have screwed two of them up and am trying a third time.  The intent is to screw on the lid (with the sensor installed) and just read the temp and humidity, then put the regular lid back on. It’s powered by a USB connection and it works on the breadboard, but not after I have soldered it up.

Edited by Tentoes1962

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No taste, reminds me when I experimented with "water curing" on some weed that I tried to fix. I was given some Kush that was poorly dried and after coughing up both lungs, I tried the water cure thing. It actually cleaned it up; but too much. The buds were no longer harsh and lost all flavor/taste. IMO, flavor/taste and aroma/bouquet is about half the game of enjoying a good bong hit. Especially for those that prefer dry, bongs (no water, no ice) and find the taste of combusted trichs and terps to be heaven; almost like angel's tears.

 

I'll put to the readers of this post the same question I was asked about 15 years ago, "If the weed you smoke is properly grown, dried and cured, then why do you fuck it up by filtering the smoke with bong water?" I could not rebut with any scientific reasoning or "stoner logic" wisdom--just "bro science" that "everyone does it". And you know what? He was right, and from that day forward, wifey and I smoke naked dry bongs and both our olfactory systems do not miss the aromatic stench of bong water; not one little bit.

 

Back to the dilemma of your weed lacking taste...next time you're outside, look up and ask yourself, "what does that bright ball of fire in the sky have, that my CFL lamps lack?" and then read this brief article https://www.biologydiscussion.com/photosynthesis/physical-nature-of-light-in-plants/39817

 

With special emphasis on these two graphics--

 

image.png.95e20607ce8426fd1ee12f3135a2596e.png

 

image.png.58e0433594e39b9505c7c2700bdc18c8.png

 

Chlorophyll a, gives absorption peaks at 430 nm (Violet) and 662 nm (Red), while Chlorophyll b gives peaks at 453 nm (Blue) and 642 nm (Red).
 

Not sure if the following CFL spectra matches your CFL, but when matching the above Absorption spectrum peaks (or lack thereof) of the Violet, Blue and Red to the graph below, do we see deficiency in Relative Spectral Power? Blues are barely at 20 and Reds around 40 and kinda miss the targeted wavelengths 453 nm, 642 nm and 662 nm.

image.png.8c43c4ebaddc0742ff22a125f8e0e185.png

 

Now the spectra for the lamps I use (Philip's CMH 315/942 4200k)

image.png.17558873774f4c4dc2dbc8a432f20c20.png

Almost all spectrum range is in the 20s, with Blue and Red in the 60s.

 

Methinks your 5000k CFL bulb is not a friend to your buds when it comes to delivering taste and flavors. Photosynthesis (the conversion of light energy into "chemical energy") requires adequate light energy at particular wavelengths

 

Oh yeah, when making your next lamp selections ignore lumens/lux-- focus on how much PAR a light produces.

https://fluence.science/science-articles/horticulture-lighting-metrics/

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Thank you again, Backdoor!  I have had great luck with 5000k CFLs for vegging, in that there is almost never a diseased leaf to pluck.  Again this is for vegetative growth.  I simply continued using the CFLs because I didn’t have any better light sources.  

 

So do you use compact metal halide light throughout a grow, or just during flower?  Always appreciate your insights, Backdoor.

 

BTW this stuff smokes admirably for a heady high, not much taste at all though.  

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Just trying to nudge you toward the land of excellence; plenty of room for newcomers.

 

Yes, I use CMH for both veg and flower. I use Philips bulbs--4200k for veg and 3100k for flower. When I made the change from MH veg and HPS flower to 100% CMH was one of the best changes I've made in my garden, hands down. Everything improved, plant health and growth, cannabinoid potency, terps, flavor, size, better penetration (fewer popcorn buds), etc. The CMH bulbs have a very broad spectrum (closest to the sun's spectrum) and burn considerably cooler; like half the heat. Nice to be able to cut my AC use by at least a 1/3 (smaller electric bills means the lamps kinda paid for themselves in the first year--not counting the extra yield). IMO, the best lamp position is VERTICAL (which means those dual end lamps are useless for me--as they are horizontal); the light coverage is very uniform as I can run my hand above the plant canopy and shadowing is almost nil, uniform light coverage on the plants. With MH and HPS fixtures, there were always "hot spots" and "cold spots" and lots of shadows.

 

I too used to run CFL lamps, then when I bumped up to MH/HPS, my yield easily tripled and quality improved considerably. Then I did the mixed spectrum thing for about 5 years (alternated with HPS and MH in flower) and terp's doubled in quantity (per lab results) and product was far superior (dispensaries paid more). Then I went 100% CMH and wished I did that a few years ago; but better late than never!

 

But hey, these are just my observations.

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That is great information but I am loathe to pay what they ask for the CMH fixtures, ballasts, etc.  

 

My biggest mistake was to continue to use the 5000k CFLs into flower, but I’m still a believer in them in their ability to veg cannabis.  

 

Could anyone recommend an inexpensive source of CMH equipment?  Google seems to present me with a bunch of over-priced stuff....

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I scored the Vivosun from Amazon last year for $199.99; ballast is built in the fixture.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WGLXKZJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Available here for more

https://www.walmart.com/ip/VIVOSUN-315W-Ceramic-Metal-Halide-CMH-Grow-Light-Fixture-Builtin-Ballast-Kit/884827230?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0

 

And here for $10 cheaper

https://www.ebay.com/i/313188461883?chn=ps

 

Different fixture, but complete kit with hangers and 3100k lamp (not Philips)

https://growace.com/yield-lab-professional-series-120-220v-315w-all-in-one-hood-cmh-complete-grow-light-kit.html

 

And here a bit cheaper (free shipping)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/315W-CMH-CDM-Grow-light-kit-W-3100k-Bulb-VERTICAL-Reflector-Ceramic-Metal-Halide-/313019566448?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10.

 

If you decide to buy fixture and ballast separately, Phantom and Advance ballasts are highly rated. And, make sure the bulb position is in the downward/vertical position. A single 315w bulb is almost equal to HPS 600w, and has a footprint of 3' x 3' for flower and 4' x 4' for veg.

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Thanks Backdoor!  I have been looking at the lower-wattage versions so that, for a given grow area, I like to have more light sources for better light penetration into the canopy.  In other words, for a given 4’x4’ grow area I like to  have (4) 70 watt lamps as opposed to one 315 watt lamp for better light penetration to the lower leaves.  Is there any flaw with that reasoning?

 

And also thank you for the specifics on what equivalent black-body radiator color temperature that you use, 4200K for veg and 3100K for flower.😎

Edited by Tentoes1962

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On 10/22/2020 at 1:07 AM, Backdoor said:

 

No taste, reminds me when I experimented with "water curing" on some weed that I tried to fix. I was given some Kush that was poorly dried and after coughing up both lungs, I tried the water cure thing. It actually cleaned it up; but too much. The buds were no longer harsh and lost all flavor/taste. IMO, flavor/taste and aroma/bouquet is about half the game of enjoying a good bong hit. Especially for those that prefer dry, bongs (no water, no ice) and find the taste of combusted trichs and terps to be heaven; almost like angel's tears.

 

I'll put to the readers of this post the same question I was asked about 15 years ago, "If the weed you smoke is properly grown, dried and cured, then why do you fuck it up by filtering the smoke with bong water?" I could not rebut with any scientific reasoning or "stoner logic" wisdom--just "bro science" that "everyone does it". And you know what? He was right, and from that day forward, wifey and I smoke naked dry bongs and both our olfactory systems do not miss the aromatic stench of bong water; not one little bit

 

I remember way back in my younger days when I gave a ride to a stoner “friend” who brought his bong along with him on our journey through space and time,   Before we could partake and while making a sharp turn in the car, I heard the sound of “....bump, glug, glug, glug, glug...” and my stoner friend saying,” oh wow man!....I lost my resin!!!”  No statement of remorse or apology for letting all of that “sweet” bong water disperse into my car floorboard...

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17 hours ago, Tentoes1962 said:

Thanks Backdoor!  I have been looking at the lower-wattage versions so that, for a given grow area, I like to have more light sources for better light penetration into the canopy.  In other words, for a given 4’x4’ grow area I like to  have (4) 70 watt lamps as opposed to one 315 watt lamp for better light penetration to the lower leaves.  Is there any flaw with that reasoning?

 

And also thank you for the specifics on what equivalent black-body radiator color temperature that you use, 4200K for veg and 3100K for flower.😎

Please experiment, but to help you compare apples to oranges, compare Luminous Efficiency (lumens per watt), CRI (sunlight = 100) and the PPF (umols per second)

 

Philip 315w CMH lamps have a Luminous Efficiency of 109, PPF of 1.9, CRI of 90 and rated for 20,000 hours (at 80% lumens)

HPS 1000w bulbs have a Luminous Efficiency between 100-140, PPF of 1.9, CRI mid 20s and rated for 9,000-12,000 hours

CFL bulbs (70 watt equiv) have a Luminous Efficiency in the 60s, PPF of 0.9, CRI low 80s and rated for 8,000 hours

 

As for light penetration, I have used CFLs, T5s, double end HPS, 1000w, 600w and 400w HPS/MH and now 315w CMH--I would say CMH exceed in the light penetration department. Probably because the bulb (when in vertical position) has nearly zero cold/hot spots, thus illuminating the plant canopy quite evenly. I place these about 2-3' above the canopy as well; 18" is too short.

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Hi so here is the last living female of the grow I started a few months back.  The trichomes are mostly clear (70%) and some milky (30%).  I would normally cut the main trunk and suspend it in the air, up-side down, but I’m afraid in this case that they might all kind of clump together when I suspend them to dry....would there be any disadvantage to chopping individual buds and drying them separately?

18DC7C20-2633-4ADD-80C2-C95FA63897D3.jpeg

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Hi everyone my first three plants are all curing and the last female (another strain) is still going.  Her trichomes are about 60% milky and 40% clear so I was still holding out for that to get closer to 80%/40% but I don’t know if the fox-tailing it has been doing is because of the conditions or if it is genetic (I understand some strains have Fox-tailing behavior that is normal).  It’s called “Second Sight BX”, and I got the seeds for free at a meeting of the “Cannabeizein Garden Club” over a year ago, but I don’t know where to find any information about this particular strain.

 

A few questions I have now are:

1) There were a few male flowers that produced seeds.  Some of these seeds look like they’re healthy so I have heard that if these seeds were planted and cared for, then they would be guaranteed to be female.  Is that right?

 

2) On those buds that did “hermie”, I guess the other, unfertilized flowers are still quite smokable?

I have been dipping into my own stash of trim and it is strong; it still has almost no taste, it won’t make you cough, nothing..

 

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So I must admit that I have not been a very good steward of my last plant but I found the last female to be covered in aphids....all along the leaf stems, just packed in.  Would a soak in pyrethrin hurt the buds of the plant?  She is well into flower and I’m sure that this is the cause of all of the foxtailing....

13A3A8D5-5792-47C5-949F-C37AFA7C4F4C.jpeg

Edited by Tentoes1962
Include photo

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By the way, I found that fungus gnats are apparently attracted to the “hardener” component of 2-part epoxy (the two-part mix where you mix equal parts of hardener and resin).  I have attached a picture of the bottle of epoxy “hardener”, showing a bunch of dead fungus gnats that got stuck to the excess, spilled hardener.  Note that this bottle of hardener was kept quite far away from the plants and they really seem to be attracted to it.   This is just the hardener part of the 2-part mix NOT mixed with the resin.

3CA5C5C4-B767-4643-A5E8-72A0BAA4911E.jpeg

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On 11/7/2020 at 5:18 PM, Tentoes1962 said:

Would a soak in pyrethrin hurt the buds of the plant?

I would not use a chemical at this point, Try using a spray bottle with ice water in it. to knock them off, then kill them? 

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Hi so I was cleaning/trimming the last female, and I believe that maybe I have found the problem.  The attached photo is of the bud I was trimming and isn’t that some kind of mold growing on the inside of the bud next to the main stem?

 

Also I realize that having such a bad infestation of aphids indicates a severe lack of supervision, but I wrongly assumed that since I was growing indoors I didn’t have to worry about bugs as much and in such a relatively low humidity climate that I didn’t have to worry about mold as much either and I was a fool to think so.

 

Thanks everyone!

82DA19E4-BE72-418B-9F5B-E83ABB2D0D10.jpeg

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That looks like bud rot and I think can be highly dangerous for your lungs. @Graywolf On the above post, If this is bud rot can it still be used, or is it trash? Thanks in advance, 

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Botrytis produces no known aflatoxins and its spores and filiments can be removed from a concentrate by filtering at 0.2 microns with a syringe filter, which removes the odor and flavor.

 

Botrytis is the same mold that is used to produce Grand Cru wines,  but some people can have a Type I allergic reaction to the spores and mycelium.


A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.

2f42e9d4a87fca6ddeddd0fbc0334c70.png
 

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And if one wants to cough up a lung or two, then smoke some "bud rot" cannabis that's dusted with a generous sprinkling of aphid carcasses.

 

IMO, life is too short to smoke shit weed.

 

Lesson learned: inspect your crop at least 2x week and seek the least evasive/destructive solution.

 

My first weapon of choice to attack leaf critters is "Bug Blaster BBN". It is a hose attachment that blasts aphids (under and on top of the leaf) with plain water (no poisons). Take your plant outside, connect to hose and spray under/over all leaves, then say good bye to aphids, spider mites, etc. For obvious reasons, I would use with great caution on flowering plants.

image.png.17e264cd518fb12586a1d1b7d46591fe.png

 

 

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