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Backdoor

Private Senior
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Everything posted by Backdoor

  1. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Sure, just remember that if growing organic was that easy, then everyone would be doing it...in spades. Advance preparation is the secret: grow medium for use in 6 weeks, must be mixed now. Once upon a time I thought I grew plants, then someone said, "feed the soil, not the plant", which I did and things improved, then someone said focus on the microherd, which I now do. I am the landlord and my tenants are the microherd. Fungi feed on bacteria, bacteria feed on organic carbon, which is important, and then we have a group of protozoa, which eats them all, and so forth... Microherd is a group of microorganisms that feed on the goodness in the grow medium, that in turn provide the plants nutrition in a "plant available" form. So, are we ready to grow and feed populations of microorganisms? That's what I really do. Nutritionally, the plants take care of themselves, I just provide the environment and food for everyone to do their thing. Which brings us to the concepts of sustainability and Biodynamic practices. Are you game?
  2. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Simple advice for noobies, when you think the plant's done and ready, water it and let it go for another week, and observe how the buds swell. Sometimes the recommended flowering time starts on 12/12 photoperiod flip....and then sometimes it starts when the plant's pistils are about 3/4 inch or so (about 10-14 days after flip...think outdoor with the sun and nature decides when to "flip").
  3. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Just trying to apply my wisdom to your predicament, and provide your with a pathway to success, Kinda hard to do things today, that should have been completed weeks earlier--without cheating.
  4. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Here's the conflict: Most organic nutrients right out of the bag are not immediately "plant available" while many "inorganic" nutrients are. It takes time for organic nutrients to metabolize and become "plant available". Then we have this issue, after 75 days or so, most organic nutrients are fully decomposed and consumed, which means the time to add organic inputs would have been about 60-75 days ago, not now. So feeding with an organic water soluble nutrient is your destination and that can be accomplished with a tea; bat guano teas are popular and are quite effective. However, public acceptance of using bat guano is somewhat mixed. Some suggest those that collect bat guano do so in hazardous conditions and involve political corruption (Peruvian Seabird Guano for example). So, here we have an effective organic solution that may not be socially correct. In the world we live in today, one must choose their words and actions carefully (as some people are easily offended) thus I no longer mix Bat Guano into my grow medium but reserve it for teas.
  5. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Providing the plants food during "bloom time" is one way to gain ginormous buds. It has been my experience that plants need more than extra doses of magnesium sulfate (aka Epsom Salts). I suggest a simple, easy to use "all purpose" water soluble fertilizer containing all the micro nutrients required for Cannabis. Now, for R&D and "non-organic" growing I use SeaGrow 16-16-16 by Grow More; but NOT for my OMMP organic patient/production garden (as for these I follow 100% organic principles and use only organic amendments, a process that starts months before the plant is inserted in the grow medium). Sometimes you have a plant that exhibits a lighter green foliage and "is not 100% well", for those I suggest daily feedings (1-2 grams per gallon of water) of SeaGrow 16-16-16. To provide a bit of enhancer, feed 1-2 grams weekly during blooming phase (bud growth). If you want to cheat and pickup another 25% in weight without effecting taste and quality, adding synthetics can do the job. A simple one two punch is using Hawaiian Bud and Bloom (5-50-17) (about 4-5 weeks before harvest at the rate of 1.25 grams/gallon) and then followed by your plain vanilla MPK (monopotassium phosphate) 0-52-34 (3-4 weeks before harvest at the rate of 2.5 grams/gallon). AND then nothing but water (save a few treatments of Blackstrap Molasses...5ml/gallon rate) for the last 3 weeks. https://www.amazon.com/Grow-More-7510-Hawaiian-5-50-17/dp/B008JBX15I?th=1 https://www.amazon.com/Monopotassium-Phosphate-0-52-34-Minimum-Purity/dp/B07RS55BZQ/ref=pd_lpo_86_t_1/136-8453337-2011955?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07RS55BZQ&pd_rd_r=967a3d6f-6626-43ce-9f41-1756fc5d5cdb&pd_rd_w=2BN0i&pd_rd_wg=6Q4aq&pf_rd_p=7b36d496-f366-4631-94d3-61b87b52511b&pf_rd_r=W2SJBBNB6P580XS01TQQ&psc=1&refRID=W2SJBBNB6P580XS01TQQ Of course if you have money to blow, MOAB 0-52-32 (Mother of All Blooms) is a pricey option for fools. Again, for my OMMP Grow Site, I adhere to strict Biodynamic/Organic principles and do not use synthetic enhancers nor SeaGrow 16-16-16...but did for years in a different place in a land far away (where the demand organic cannabis was nil). OK, story time over...
  6. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Yes, the number of days are flowering days starting with the first 12 hour dark photoperiod change. I have seen trichs go from clear, to milky, to cloudy, back to clear and then go directly to amber. You are at day 35 in flower, and my suggestion is pretend you have a 9 weeker (63 days) and feed her accordingly. Those flowers will bulk up if you allow them. One advice I used to provide for hobby growers is "when you think its time to harvest, wait another 10 -14 days, then decide. You will be amazed what happens after 7 weeks (49 days). Now remember, THCA converts to THC under these 3 conditions: Time (aging), Light (UVs), and Heat (combusting or vaping). So when you pack a bowl of 2% THC/20% THCA weed, after you light it and inhale, its all THC. Now my Daytime Tinctures contains 14% THCA/86% THC (should have been nearly 80% THCA but the stupid fool Erich (Pharmex) that extracted my Cherry Cobblers was "all hat, no cowboy" and failed). The taste and flavors are remarkably different than the Nighttime Tincture (100% THC). But that's is a story for a different day, as the objective was to create two tinctures within the OMMP network: one dominant in "non-pyscho active" THCA and the other dominant in "pyscho-active" THC. The Sherwood OMMP dispensary still has a very limited supply of my tinctures and I finally received from La Grande OMMP dispensary's all my tincture inventory (La Grande was not supposed to receive the tincture, they did not want it and were not going to sell the tincture--but the gang at Pharmex thought otherwise days before their OMMP license expired). I will post more tincture information later in a new thread....sorry did not mean or desire to hijack this wonderful thread.
  7. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    For a hobby grow, snipping a few buds a day from a flowering mature plant is one way to experience buds at different stages of maturity. For a production grow, most will harvest the whole plant and usually all the plants of that batch at the same time. That said, interesting experiments can be conducted by allowing a plant to mature past its suggested harvest date. Years ago I was growing Chocolope that was insanely aromatic (beautiful rotten tropical fruit) and I decided to flower it 100 days (almost twice the normal 54 days) and wow: Hershey Kisses. It tasted, smelled and smoked just like those foil wrapped chocolate drops. My buddy years ago, had an jumbo greenhouse plant that he forgot about (high desert in southwest) and around Christmas he discovered his "mistake" and buds were so big they were laying on top of each other, stacks and stacks, that pulling them apart was impossible. The trichomes swelled and behaved like glue and formed "trichome puddles" of sticky goo. Had I not seen the video, I would be calling this a crock of shit...but, my eyes were not lying. LOL, hazards of unattended automated irrigation always generates "plant growth". Determining the "harvest date" for new strains is a process, I snip and tag good sized top buds daily for 2-3 weeks (55 -77 days maturity) and conduct my quality assurance and comparative tests. In my garden, the sweet spot is seldom under 60 days; sweet spot for Cherry Cobbler is almost 10 weeks (68 days), Purple Punch is 62ish (plus minus 4 days).
  8. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Matter of preference, I prefer observing 5% amber on indica dominant plants (best lab numbers), but if the plant is harvested at the moment amber first appears the buds look fresher (and a wee bit smaller) with little to no "dark hairs". If one wants more THCA (as opposed to delta 9 THC) then harvest prior to amber. The last batch of Cherry Cobbler was harvested with 5% amber and lab results were: 27.3% THCA and 2.29% THC (delta 9), 31.3% total cannabinoids. The last batch of Purple Punch was harvested with less than 3% amber (a lot less) and lab results were: 22.0% THCA and 0.826% THC (delta 9), 23.6% total cannabinoids . When labs convert THCA to an equivalent THC (delta 9) they use a 87.7% factor, so total THC = [(THCA x 0.877) = THC (delta 9)] On the flipside, in my garden buds bulk up and extra 10-20% if I wait until 5% amber--rather than pull at the first sign of amber.
  9. Backdoor

    Just a noob’s picture of my ghetto-grow

    My Cherry Cobbler has red, brown, tan, gold, as well as yellow and white "hairs". Strain specific I say.
  10. Backdoor

    Just a noob’s picture of my ghetto-grow

    When fighting unwanted pests, instead of attacking the pest with the same weapon (Mode of Action) over and over, I gained the best success with a rotation of "cides" with different MOA. WTF is MOA? Insecticide Resistance Action Committee (IRAC) is the recognized authority that has grouped and classified insecticidal compounds, bacterial agents, extracts and crude oils, fungal agents, mechanical disruptors, peptides and viruses (aka "cides") based on their "mode of action". IRAC currently has 32 numbered and 5 unnumbered MOA classifications. https://irac-online.org/modes-of-action/ Primary Groups are: Nerve and Muscle Targets Most current insecticides act on nerve and muscle targets. Insecticides that act on these targets are generally fast acting. Growth and Development Targets Insect development is controlled by the balance of two principal hormones: juvenile hormone and ecdysone. Insect growth regulators act by mimicking one of these hormones or directly perturbing cuticle formation/deposition or lipid biosynthesis. Insecticides that act on individual targets in this system are generally slow to moderately slow acting. Respiration Targets Mitochondrial respiration produces ATP, the molecule that energizes all vital cellular processes. In mitochondria, an electron transport chain stores the energy released by oxidation in the form of a proton gradient, which drives ATP synthesis. Several insecticides are known to interfere with mitochondrial respiration by the inhibition of electron transport and/or oxidative phosphorylation. Insecticides that act on individual targets in this system are generally fast to moderately fast acting. Midgut Targets Lepidopteran-specific microbial toxins that are sprayed or expressed in transgenic crop varieties, and baculoviruses. Unknown or non-specific Targets Several insecticides are known to affect less well-described target-sites or functions, or to act non-specifically on multiple targets. Example: Pyrethrins are considered Nerve and Muscle Targets, #3 Sodium Channel Modulators BTI is considered Midgut Tartgets, #11 Microbial disruptors of insect midgut membranes Diatomaceous Earth (DE) is considered Unknown or non-specific Targets, #UNM Non-specific mechanical disruptors Neem Oil is considered Unknown or non-specific Targets, #UNE Botanical essence including synthetic, extracts and unrefined oils with unknown or uncertain MoA IMO, to obtain the best results for both the plant and consumer, one must also know the half-life of their weapon. Some cides have a half-life greater than 200 days and some are hours. It depends.
  11. Backdoor

    Just a noob’s picture of my ghetto-grow

    Applications of H202 to the soil will also annihilate most of your microherd. Yellow sticky cards is a good control (no poison), or for a DIY version, buy a tub of Tanglefoot and smear it on cards. https://www.amazon.com/Tanglefoot-300000684-Tree-15-Tub/dp/B000BWY3AA?ref_=ast_sto_dp BTI ( Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis) besides being an mosquito killer, also destroys fungus gnat larvae. It can be expensive (Gnatrol) but for the best bargain, try Mosquito Bits (corncob pieces containing BTI). https://www.amazon.com/Summit-Responsible-Solutions-Mosquito-Bits/dp/B0001AUF8G/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=mosquito+bits&qid=1598023215&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-2 Add about 1 tablespoon of Mosquito Bits to the soil surface, mix it a wee bit and everytime you water BTI is released (think time release). But the trick is to apply BTI a few days before the larvae stage. Bits can be mixed in with your grow medium as well (about 1 tabelspoon for 7 gallons of grow medium). The graphic below is 21-30 day life cycle of this critter. BTI is effective at "6 o'clock" so apply BTI before, like at 3 o'clock after eggs are dropped and before those 1 eyed wormy larvae appear (at 6 o'clock) DE is effective between 9 o'clock and 2 o'clock (juvenile and adult). Sticky cards and Tanglefoot is effective on adults (between 12 o'clock and 2 o'clock). Pyrethrin is effective at all stages. I hope this helps.
  12. Backdoor

    Just a noob’s picture of my ghetto-grow

    Ever find those fake "faux" seeds in a bud? You know those all white or tan colored shells with nothing inside, and when met with a flame, they go snap, crackle, pop... Don't yah hate that? I do. Methinks the cause is in front of us, a male "nanner" on a female plant that "isn't all together". If we were to compare the genetic stability of the pollen from a male plant and against the pollen from "female plant" (what you have), which one would win? That said, sometimes experiencing and observing things personally, is the best teacher.
  13. Backdoor

    Just a noob’s picture of my ghetto-grow

    Remove the nanners and a spray of water is known to "deactivate" pollen, but not kill it.
  14. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Foliar feeding? Rainwater usually has a low ph and can contain particles (dust) that may or may not be beneficial to cannabis. One must remember, cannabis plants are "accumulators", they excel in absorbing and accumulating chemical compounds from soil--perfect for phytoremediation. Remember Chernobyl? Yep, pot vs nukes and pot wins. Hence I filter the well water I use for my garden and, oddly as it may seem, I use municipal water (which contains chlorine) to hold my cuttings in water before popping them in plugs. Well water has a higher level of bacteria causes the stems to get mushy.
  15. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    And for flower, I use CDM ELITE TMW 315/930/U/O EU https://www.lighting.philips.com/main/prof/conventional-lamps-and-tubes/high-intensity-discharge-lamps/ceramic-metal-halide/mastercolor-cdm-t-elite-med-wattage/928601167131_EU/product ....and below is it's spectrum Compared to Horti's Super HPS Same observation--compare Brands A & B with the sun and select accordingly. And remember, terpenes and flavonoids are effected by the blues.
  16. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    For veg I use Philips CDM Elite TMW 315/942/U/O EU. https://www.lighting.philips.com/main/prof/conventional-lamps-and-tubes/high-intensity-discharge-lamps/ceramic-metal-halide/mastercolor-cdm-t-elite-med-wattage/928601167331_EU/product Why? Spectrum. First here is the spectrum of the Sun. And the spectrum of the popular Hortilux 1000w Metal Halide. Notice the spikes of blue at 470ish, 510ish, and the spike of red at 590ish, as well as the multiple valleys (low to no spectrum) below 500 nm, the blues. Unlike the sun with a spike around 450 nm.. And the spectrum for the Philips 315/942 (4200k). Ahh, compare these blues with the sun's. Hence the "fuller spectrum" statement.
  17. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Oh, compared to the smartest peeps I've met, I am a mere midget in a land of giants. What I know today, is because years ago I did not know much. What I will know in the future, will because of things I don't know today. Remember, I'm and old guy and everyday I try to learn something new; which is easy in a world with swift technological advances. Yes, UV-A/B are good generators of terps. When I ran HPS lamps, I had a simple routine that blessed me with killer potency. For the first few weeks (during stretch) I used Metal Halide 7.2K Kelvin (Plantmax 600w) https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/115289/PX-MS6007200.html , then 1000w HPS (3k) for blooming, then for the final 3 weeks I used Metal Halide 10k (Plantmax 600w) https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/88311/PX-MPS60010K.html . And I imposed water deficits during the final weeks, but harvested plants fully hydrated. That routine produced killer buds, then I migrated to full spectrum Ceramic Metal Halide 315 watt lamps and haven't looked back. These 315 watt bulbs produce ample UV-A/B and produces a light spectrum that is almost identical to the sun, and is comparable to output of 600 watt HPS (with about half the energy). BTW, I haven't forgot about the saucer, draining and runoff discussion. I searching for some worksheets and procedures that I've downloaded years ago and will present those later. I forgot how important and beneficial it is to use good watering techniques, and hopefully improve the quality and yield without the need for overpriced bottles with labels containing cartoon characters. Pure technique.
  18. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Regarding imposing water deficit to improve root mass, many studies have shown that AMF (arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi) will kick in high gear and boost root development during moments of water deficit. Funny things happen when we impose abiotic and biotic stress on healthy plants. Go to google scholar https://scholar.google.com/ ...and enter the following search terms and read away "water deficit" amf "water deficit" cannabinoid and for kicks and giggles for us oenophiles, it seems the better vintages were one's with a wee bit of drought, try this search term "water deficit" terroir wine For those that don't read research papers---allow me to share this: Upon harvest, drought-stressed plants had increased concentrations of major cannabinoids tetrahydrocannabinol acid (THCA) and cannabidiolic acid (CBDA) by 12% and 13%, respectively, compared with the control. Further, yield per unit growing area of THCA was 43% higher than the control, CBDA yield was 47% higher, ∆9-tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) yield was 50% higher, and cannabidiol (CBD) yield was 67% higher. Controlled drought stress may therefore be an effective horticultural management technique to maximize both inflorescence dry weight and cannabinoid yield in cannabis, although results may differ by cannabis cultivar or chemotype. Hmmmm....hope this helps.
  19. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Let's assume all grow mediums are the same, in texture, water & air holding capacity, material size, in composition and that cation/anion thing. If all grow mediums were identical, then all growers would practice identical watering habits. Unfortunately, this is not the situation. When I deliver 64oz of water to my 1 cuft (7.5 gallon) grow bag, it is immediately absorbed (no pooling) and in about 30-45 seconds later runoff will appear. Some will see runoff immediately; others will never see runoff. Permit me to step on my soap box and preach the importance of dialing in the air/water porosity rates for your grow medium. The mix I use for those baby 16oz cups is NOT the same I use for my 1 cuft grow bags. In my garden, smaller sized containers require more aeration (I add more perlite/vermiculite to my mix). How do you know if your mix needs more air/water porosity? You perform a test for each container size. My progression is: Cuttings start in 2" net cups in a "rooting mix" (equal parts of peat & vermiculite), then transplanted to 16oz square cups (equal parts "rooting mix" and my basic "grow medium"), then I use my grow medium to transplant to 1 gallon grow bags, with the best performing plants promoted to 1 cuft grow bags. The grow medium I use is designed for larger containers and I modify it for use in smaller containers. I refer to my earlier post discussing air/water porosity matters; it works. Oh, how much and often do I water? It depends on the plant. The Purple Punch plants in flower mode (target harvest date is August 1) consume 64 oz of water each day. If I feed them 48 oz, no run off and they will be dry as a bone the next day; if I feed them 96 oz, runoff galore and the soil will remain moist the following day. When I feed them 64 oz, I see about 8 oz of run off (and since I bottom wick, those sitting in saucers I let the run off remain in the saucer). On the other hand, Cherry Cobbler plants vegging in 1 cuft bags are water sucker-uppers. If they don't receive 96 oz of water each day, they will be dry as a bone the following day. The fussy pussy Crown OG, she is deceptive--the soil surface can appear to be moist, but lift the container and she is more dry than wet. Daily rates in the veg of 48 oz is too little and 64 oz is too much. Now, I have some Cherry Cobbler plants in veg that should have transplanted from 1 gallon bags to 1 cuft bags weeks ago, but still remain in 1 gallon bags. Those I feed with 64 oz of water (yep run off galore, maybe 20 oz or so), but the following morning, all saucers will be dry. If I skip a day (water every other day) then everybody happy. But if I feed them daily with 48 oz of water, both plant and saucer will be dry the following day. During the process of reclaiming my grow medium, I separate the rootball from the grow medium and here is my observation: Plants that swung from extremes (wet -> dry -> wet -> dry...and so forth) had sorry looking roots; lots of thin thread like roots that showed signs of stress. Plants that were continuously moist (never dried out) had thickest mass and plenty of white fat thread like roots...lol, even weeks after harvest. That said, a targeted water deficit at certain during the plant's life can be beneficial: greater root mass, greater bud size, increased flavors and aromas are things I have noticed. The best learning experience is to "experiment"...try several water techniques and then conduct your own rootball autopsy. To have a great upstairs (buds) one must have a greater downstairs (roots). Hope this helps.
  20. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    First, I squeak when I walk (tight ass) and since I have more time than money--I must always balance my genetic defect: I am both perfectionist and a connoisseur of fine things; that said let's discuss benefit over cost. On one extreme--if one waters a containerized plant just shy to the point of runoff, then the possibility of grow medium dry spots is greater (water flows vertical with gravity--and will water tension will cause it to flow horizontal). Now let's swing the pendulum to the opposite side: if one waters excessively, then goodness is being leached away and if the runoff sits int he saucer, then the grow medium will become anaerobic . Somewhere in between is the Goldilocks answer (not too much, not too little, but just right). The best test is for you water same sized pots with your grow medium and compare the results when using different water quantities. Here's is what I did, took a #5 plastic container made 2x2" square cutout windows along the sides, lined the inside with clear plastic and observed what happens with different watering techniques. As I adjusted my grow medium ingredients, I would observe how the water moved inside the container. Watering just until runoff began to dribble caused half the grow medium to remain dry. Watering until excess runoff caused complete saturation and leaving the water in the saucer caused the grow medium at the bottom center to never dry and had the lowest root growth. Watering until 10-20% runoff caused the grow medium to be 75% wet...and when I let the runoff to wick back to the grow medium I observed the bottom portion of the grow medium to be wet while the top surface (1") was dry. Watering with runoff does seem to create more "tunnels" and crevices within the grow medium, some smarter people suggest these become pathways for roots. So, what would I do--pack a container with grow medium, water the grow medium like you normally do, wait about half hour and then flip the container upside down, remove the container and observe the grow medium. Notice how the moisture is not even. Fast forward to today. I use a combination bottom wicking (layer of orchid bark at the bottom of the container) and target 10-20% runoff, and allow it to be absorbed. Results, I have roots growing out of my drain holes...btw I changed to those grow bags instead of soft sided fabric grow pots, which I changed a few years ago after decades of using hard sided plastic containers. Best answer will always be the Goldilocks solution...what works "just right for you".
  21. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Regarding runoff: It is best to water any containerized plant to the point where there is 10-20% runoff. I water my plant with half gallon of water (64oz) then I expect to see 6-12 oz of water in the saucer. Is it best to remove the runoff? Yes. If you are wicking from the bottom, then the above rule DOES NOT APPLY. Different rules.
  22. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Sorry for being AWOL for the past week or so, but life can be a blur in the fast lane. For a simple "crawling critter spray" that works on ants, fungus gnats, springtails, water beetles, etc...and not harmful to pets or wee ones, try this concoction: For 1 gallon: 2.5 ml Pyrethrin (5%) 7.5 ml of Neem Oil (biodegradable organic pesticide) 8 oz of Diatomaceous Earth (I prefer foodgrade variety: Fossil Shell Flour (FSF) as it is sourced from fresh water sources) Pour half the water in a container, add ingredients in order listed, and upon dumping the DE, immediately cover container for a 30 seconds or so (don't want to breath silica diatoms), then mix well and add water to the 1 gallon mark. MIx well and use a heavy duty chemical type spray bottle. Shake continuously to prevent the DE from separating. Modes of Action: Pyrethrin induces a neurotoxic effect Neem induces a ovicidal and larvicidal effect DE (amorphous silica gel) absorbs oils and fats found in the critters cuticles (causing them to dry out and die) and the diatom's sharp edges slice and dice the critter to pieces. Combining both Pryrethrin and Neem with DE provides me with an excellent synergistic critter spray. I recall root aphid study where Neem and DE did nothing when used separately, but ranked first when the two were combined. Similar results with Pryethrin and DE...Pyrethrin half life nearly doubled when mixed with diatoms. Don't mind the light powdery overspray as it will harm nothing and can be swept/mopped up later (if you want, but I don't). Great for ridding kitchen ants too--spray the outlets, holes, cracks and enjoy months of ant free kitchen. Hope this helps.
  23. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    The pair of thread-like structure and shape of the pistils I see in this pic--is why I think girl. This pic I stole online clearly shows the white twin threadlike structures and pistil shape we are all accustom seeing.
  24. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    The two white thread-like hairs are your friend, she is a she. But we could always see a "he-she" later. Variation of cultivars (phenotypes) is common. About 150 years years ago, a European monk named Mendel experimented with the common pea. Through selective cross breeding over many generations he observed certain characteristics appeared in offspring (aka recessive, dominant traits) as discrete units, as opposed to the blending of the traits of the parents, the theory popular at the that time. More importantly and applicable to your situation he discovered a 3:1 ratio of inherited traits. When he cross pollinated pea plant that produced yellow pea seeds with one that produced green peas seeds, (yellow+green parents), their offspring (F1) were always yellow seeds but the following generation (F2) were consistently mixed, 3 yellow and 1 green. And this relationship would continue for successive generations. So, 3:1 means that 3 will be alike, 1 will be different, no milk man and not a sister of from a different father--rather its simply genetics. https://www2.palomar.edu/anthro/mendel/mendel_1.htm Hope this helps.
  25. Backdoor

    Graywolfslair blog site open

    Will you include extraction discussions using food grade solvents (ethyl alcohol)? Particularly, processing at low temperatures (below 100°) to capture all the cannabinoid "a's" (THCA, CBGA, CBNA, etc.) I know ethyl alcohol is low yielder (maybe 40 grams per pound of flowers) and is not very efficient, but my focus is 100% medicinal and second guessing which solvents FDA will prescribe when medicinal cannabis products are regulated by the Feds. Past sessions of reading chicken bones, tea leaves, crystal ball says: "hydrocarbon solvents will not be permitted for medicinal products"; besides the purging process (heat) destroys the "a's" and terpenes.
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