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Backdoor

Private Senior
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Everything posted by Backdoor

  1. Backdoor

    Graywolfslair blog site open

    Will you include extraction discussions using food grade solvents (ethyl alcohol)? Particularly, processing at low temperatures (below 100°) to capture all the cannabinoid "a's" (THCA, CBGA, CBNA, etc.) I know ethyl alcohol is low yielder (maybe 40 grams per pound of flowers) and is not very efficient, but my focus is 100% medicinal and second guessing which solvents FDA will prescribe when medicinal cannabis products are regulated by the Feds. Past sessions of reading chicken bones, tea leaves, crystal ball says: "hydrocarbon solvents will not be permitted for medicinal products"; besides the purging process (heat) destroys the "a's" and terpenes.
  2. Backdoor

    TW lazy grow journal, lol multiple strains!

    That my friend is a question of certain perplexity. Perhaps it falls in the "Goldilocks Solution" (not too hot, not too cold, but just right), or is it strain related, or related to growing style....hmm. For years I did the perpetual harvest thing with a harvest of a dozen plants every 10 days or so) and, shocking, I experimented. I submit it can be "strain specific"; some strains became killer potency pods (aka sugar buds) when vegged for ridiculously longer than usual (super mature grandmas) and some were best when young (rob the cradle for best numbers). And it also can be growing style, aggressive training (LST bending, defoliating, topping, etc....or all of the above. All different destinations with a shared goal. Which is the most efficient path? Some measure efficiency by counting dollars, others measure it by counting hours. Then those of us the squeak when we walk (tight ass), its both. Now to answer the question, is there a "big qualitative difference in the smoke quality by making them flower earlier or younger". From what I experienced in my garden and observed other gardens, "early or younger" effects yield, not much in quality. But there is a difference between "sweet 16" and "old flapy tit nanny". Sweet 16 buds are hard and tight, while nanny buds are problematic, but can have more complexity in flavors and aromas (aka stink). If it takes a year to veg a plant to 4', then "Houston we have a problem". If it takes 2-3 months to veg a 4' plant with lots of branching spurs--then stand in line behind me, you have arrived. I think there is a correlation with "harvest weight" and the "number of bud sites". Although plant structure is genetically designed, with appropriate training (defoilation, pruning, topping, bending, wrapping, taping, wiring, etc) a small plant can be trained to increase bud sites, sometimes by a goodly amount. Long answer to a short question, sorry. Let's blame the long answer on a few innocent hits of a fresh Cherry Cobbler bud, followed by shot of Pendlelton Whisky,f with a chaser of Breaker double IPA.....but the path you seek lies in solving this riddle, "how do I increase the number of bud sites on a sweet 16 plant".
  3. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Its all good. If growing great cannabis was easy/not complicated, then everyone would be doing it to the tens. Imo, providing a few of my personal recipes and shining light to a "non-cannabis" agricultural publication about foliar feeding (avoiding bro-science and stoner logic), I thought would be the best and simplest and best way to introduce an old and proven technique to someone unaware of the magic of foliar feeding. Cut and paste from https://www.smart-fertilizer.com/articles/foliar-feeding/ UNDER WHICH CONDITIONS SHOULD YOU USE FOLIAR FEEDING? Under certain conditions, foliar feeding has an advantage over soil applications. Limiting conditions – A foliar feeding is recommended when environmental conditions limit the uptake of nutrients by roots. Such conditions may include high or low soil pH, temperature stress, too low or too high soil moisture, root disease, presence of pests that affect nutrient uptake, nutrient imbalances in soil etc. For example, micronutrient availability is greatly reduced in high soil pH. Under such conditions, foliar application of micronutrients might be the more efficient way to supply micronutrients to the plant. Nutrient deficiency symptoms – One of the advantages of foliar feeding is the quick response of the plant to the nutrient application. The efficiency of nutrient uptake is considered to be 8-9 folds higher when nutrients are applied to the leaves, when compared with nutrients applied to soil. Therefore, when a deficiency symptom shows up, a quick, but temporary fix, would be applying the deficient nutrient through foliar application. In specific growth stages – Plants require different amounts of nutrients in different growth stages. It is sometimes difficult to control the nutrient balance in soil. Foliar applications of essential nutrients during key stages can improve yield and quality. Hope this helps.
  4. Backdoor

    TW lazy grow journal, lol multiple strains!

    You're doing it! To help in training and support, I've used pipe cleaners and electric wire (14ga) to position branches where I want them. And when its time remove fan leaves, I would not remove more than 20-25% at a time. Some now and some later is what I would do.
  5. Backdoor

    TW lazy grow journal, lol multiple strains!

    Santa Claus beards, always good to see in DWC.
  6. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    All right Papa, you stepped in it, now show us how its done. Please respond to the OP's statement with less technical stuff. It's your turn to share and help out a beginner. So please strut your stuff and Pay It Forward.😁
  7. Backdoor

    New grower seeks advice.

    Ok, let's take this in steps. Plant preparation and soil preparation. 1. Transplant the plants into a 1-2 gallon container (which will then be transplanted a second time to their final destination. 2. Decide if the plants are going into the ground or will a 7-10 gallon container (above the ground). Which one will be your game. If you plan to go into the ground then my recommendation is to amend the soil 3-5 days before you transplant (longer is better). Assuming you have the traditional clay dominant soil, then the answer will be: 1. Add compost and sphagnum peat moss to the clay soil so it will now be 1/3 of each. 2. Mix your inputs (fertility, nutrition, liming agents, etc) with the peat moss first (easier). If you plan to go above the ground then you will want quality potting soil and mix enough NPK fertility, nutrition and other goodies. So, hard to shine any light on a particular path until you decide, above or in the ground,. For baby transplanting I sometimes will cut my normal charged grow medium with peat moss (1:1) and let the roots grow for week or two before the final transplant. My guess is some of the things I see in your pictures are related to both the environment and an imbalance of the sweet 16 nutrients; your answer will be your own private Goldilocks solution: Not too much, not too little, but just right. Start with flushing the plants with water (maybe 1 gallon each, slowly) and then, feed them with a small doses of general purpose water soluble fertilizer (I like Seagrow 16-16-16 and use at the rate of 1-2 ml /per gallon of water). Start using it daily for about a week, then everyother feeding--but water each day and maker sure you see and remove runoff (10-20%). Why not use 5ml once a week? Because small amounts delivered more often, is less stressful to an unhealthy plant. It is my go to methodology I use when my role is Nurse Nightingale. Where the plants are what is the air's high/low temperature and humidity? OK...baby steps, plant preparation (transplant) and soil preparation (which path to take?). Hope this helps.
  8. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    This 81 page pdf titled, "Foliar Nutrition" contains a wealth of information, with one caveat, it was published in 1994 so it may not contain the latest ideas. That said, imo, certain things in agriculture always remain the same; it's the people that change. https://midwestlabs.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/foliar_nutrition.pdf For some modern day thoughts-- https://ipm.missouri.edu/MPG/2019/4/foliarFeeding/ Some of my foliar spray recipes (1 gallon), first my base spray recipe which I use for all foliar nutrient and cide sprays) Base Spray recipe (used for all sprays) 0.76 grams Urea 2.5 ml EZ Wet SE (saponin wetting agent derived from Yucca Schidigera) Mineral 15 ml Potassium Silicate (liquid) 2.5 ml Liquid Seaweed Extact (GrowMore) 2.5 ml Sea Minerals (Sea-90) Fertility 2.5 ml Liquid Seaweed extract 2.5 ml hydrolyzed fish 5 ml Sea Minerals (Sea-90) Preventive Biological PM 37.5 ml Regalia 4 grams Actinovate 2.5 ml Liquid Seaweed Extract Preventive PM/Cide 7.5 ml Neem 70 (70% neem and 30% orange plus?) 7.5 ml Azatrol/Azamax (1.2% azadirachtin) 2.5 ml PyGanic (5% pyrethrin) Hope this helps.
  9. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Ah, foie gras, mighty tasty treat. Dab it on bread, glass of Syrah wine and watching a fabulous sunset (at the beach)--trifecta! A simple plant feeding analogy: Feeding your plant via roots is like eating at "smorgasbord"--the plant decides what it wants to eat and how much; if it doesn't want "broccoli" it skips it. Feeding your plant via foliar spray is like "gavage feeding" (forced feeding through a tube passed into the stomach)--the plant has no choice but to intake the nutrients via the stomata in the leaves and stems, at a rate that can be 20 times faster than root feeding. Hmm, skinny minny vs big boned long legged amazon warrioress, lol.
  10. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Yes, when I do seed runs, I am able to determine sex by day 42 after seed germination while everyone is in veg. I start on day 36 and by day 42, task is done. Occasionally there will be a few stumpers so, for these I take a cutting from the top (keeping the bigger "mama" plant) and after it roots put the baby under 12/12 photoperiod and let nature tell me the sex. Some of the undetermined ones were AC/DC (herms) which explains the difficulty. I buy one or two of these each year. Under $5 and they work for me, maybe it's because I like dark roast coffee--black and the occasional caffeine jitters makes it difficult to hold a larger magnifier steady. Ahh, with these tiny magnifiers, I have to put my face right into it (real intimate), but it works for me--even after a double expresso. Some smart people say a plant can be re-vegged (veg --> 12/12 flower --> 18/6 veg) without a problem, I disagree. One of the variables the can alter a plant's genetics is environment, as when a plant responds to an environmental change. In Science speak: Stress-responsive genes and their subsequent introgression or overexpression within sensitive crop species can change a cultivars genome (aka GMO).
  11. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    I examine the area near the plant stipule (the "v") between days 36 and 42 after germination and focus on identifying pistils with white (never green) hairs.. Female parts show 4-6 weeks (before day 42) and are less confusing to identify. Examine the for pistil shaped formations with 1 or 2 white hairs peeking out of the pistil. Notice the shape of the pistil is long and not stubby like the male part (ace of spade). Male parts show 3-4 weeks after germination and are sometimes confusing to identify with great certainty. You are looking for a growth that resembles the "ace of spades"--no white hairs. Practice make perfect. BTW, photos were lifted from other websites.
  12. Backdoor

    TW lazy grow journal, lol multiple strains!

    Go "baby dolls"!
  13. Day 69, 4/23 harvest Profile View of whole plant And the gang drying And since this is the last Zookies run....
  14. This is the final run of Zookies (was not thrilled with the end result) and I thought it would be a good specimen to use for a little fun and observe the advancement of trichomes. I will take pics of the same bud every other day or so. To help us, I notched one of the fan leaves and will position the notched leaf to be at the "6 o'clock" position. Here, I am pointing to the bud we will track with the notched leaf circled. Date flipped: 2/13 Days in flower: 23
  15. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    1 cuft of anything is about 7.5 gallons. Three 5 gallon buckets will hold 2 cuft. Black absorbs heat better than white or colored buckets. 2 bags of soil, 3 black buckets (with lids), fill em and set buckets in a sunnier spot on porch for 3-4 months. You're good to go for August/September transplanting. Just a thought.😷👊
  16. Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    In lieu of adding another ingredient to the soup, may I suggest you research "soil sterilization" as an alternative to eradicate unwanted pathogens, bacteria, fungi, and critters along with their eggs. Some stink up their kitchen and heat the soil in the oven at 145 -160 degrees (half hour or so...take it 180 for pure sterility) and then others process larger amounts using the sun's free solarizing power. It can be as simple as filling black plastic trash bags with soil, sealing it and stack em in the sun for 4-8 weeks during spring and summer, or rotating stackable plastic containers/trashcans/5 gallon buckets instead of plastic bags. A compost thermometer (long probe) will tell the tale. I use the trashcan method to reclaim used soil, amend it primarily with liquid fish, seaweed extract, and sea salt, and then place the sealed trashcans in a sunny spot against a wall for 3-6 months. Only critters I see after transplanting are fungus gants, springtales, and an occasional earthworm or two; if you're organic, then, imo, these pests are really badges of honor and more of a nuisance than any threat. Why add something if less is better?
  17. Backdoor

    A good reply when someone has made a mistake...

    Of course, the old "bless your heart" is always a goody.
  18. Thanks. Day 61, 4/15 View of underside, less UV exposure
  19. Backdoor

    1-750_1114.JPG

    Working with B&W in the darkroom, imo, is more difficult than color: millions shades of grey to select from, vs infinite hues from 3 primary colors. Another artisan activity made obsolete by "bits and bytes".😷👊
  20. Backdoor

    1-750_1114.JPG

    Once upon a time, we had these round black vinyl disks that you placed on a platter that turned, and when a needle was placed between the grooves, beautiful ANALOG music would play through speakers. The music was not interrupted with repeated start-stop gaps of silience, but was sweet and had a texture that was continuous, rich, etc. Then the world of DIGITAL (bits and bytes with silent gaps, aka start-stop) music replaced ANALOG music. First it was tape, (reel to reel, then 4 track, then 8 track, and then cassettes), then CD platters, and finally downloadable wav files---all in bits and bytes. The human brain fills in the silent gaps between the bits and bytes. Then, as history does, the pendulum swings the other way, now ANALOG (turntables and LPs) are hip again (bits and bytes need not apply). Why, because certain tonal qualities and warmth can only be heard when the brain is NOT busy filling in the silient gaps between bits and bytes. Music digitized requires the brain to work, music in analog form requires less brain work. Ahh, in black and white photography using 35mm and even 4x5 sized film, the number of shades of grey is infinite; and not pixelated (magnify it 100000x and you will see continuous tones, not tiny pixels. Review any of Ansel Adams' work and you will see what I mean. When the photographer makes a print from the emulsion film, there are tricks to enhance and improve the image that one can not do with PhotoShop...like mixing timed exposure on certain areas of an image (say 15 seconds for background and foreground, and 45 second exposure for an object with certain detail). Will emulsion film return, let's just say, I still have my 4x5 Graflex press camera and my SLR Nikons and when time is on my side, I will be back in the darkroom, complete with yellow finger nails. Of course, I could be 100% wrong and may never pick up my 4x5 Graflex camera again.
  21. Day 58, 4/12 Easter Sunday Now the grow medium is on a water deficit: half of their normal 3/4 gallon. Profile And a group shot of a few Zookies against the wall. About a week from harvest so not going to try and support the heavy drooping buds. Do have nice leaf drop but no amber trichs.The newer group in the foreground are Cherry Cobbler.
  22. Day 54, 4/8 Plants are experiencing normal leaf yellowing and drop. I initially hoped to take these to 10 weeks, but I doubt that. In the words of Trumpy, "we'll see". Btw, the lactic acid in BioAg can be obtained at an incredibley affordable cost from milk that has NOT been pasteurized. That said, 5 ml per gallon of BioAg works; I know, I've been employing the other alternative at 30 ml per gallon for more than a decade. 2nd best sometimes becomes the "only best".
  23. Day 52, 4/6 Zookies grow medium has been on a water only diet since day 40 (3/20). Today they receive half dose of bacteria/zyme (SCD BioAg) along with seaweed extract and mighty mo.
  24. Sorry, was AWOL a few days. Day 50, 4/4 (at different light/dark settings) Profile view And full frontal (she is almost at the 1-2 o'clock position)
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