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Tentoes1962

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  1. Thanks
    Tentoes1962 reacted to EDDIEKIRK in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    If you pull it now, It will be fine, It will just taste a bit earthy. We've all smoked earthy weed before. Just recall that the 'CURE' is what makes the plant turn out its best, so ask us about curing, or do go read about it here on the site, You can make a plant 10 times better than what it is now with a proper cure. 
  2. Sad
    Tentoes1962 got a reaction from EDDIEKIRK in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    No unless they are totally brown.  If there's any green anywhere on the leaf,  it takes an unpleasantly hard tug to pull it off....in other words pulling off the leaf requires a tug that almost feels like I am injuring the plant....
  3. Like
    Tentoes1962 got a reaction from EDDIEKIRK in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    Cool beans man....thank you very much!!!
  4. Like
    Tentoes1962 got a reaction from EDDIEKIRK in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    Hi so I am attaching some pictures of the buds of two of the plants that I am about to harvest.  I would like to hear folks’ opinions about when I should harvest them, please.  I have a total of four plants, three of which are the same strain and one is of a different strain.
     
    So the first two pictures are of the loner plant.  I really think she isn’t ready because the trichomes are almost all clear or milky and there are almost no brown fan leaves (they are almost ALL green and healthy looking).
     
    In the third and fourth pics, the trichomes are a mixed bag in that I see mostly milky trichomes with a little amber in the older buds but with some that are clear in the newer buds.  Also from the pic you can see that this one has started to put on her autumn “clothes”.
     
    Your opinions are appreciated!




  5. Thanks
    Tentoes1962 reacted to EDDIEKIRK in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    I use these retractable plant hangers, They come in different shapes and sizes and can be purchased at almost any plant store. 
    I've watched @tumbleweed use pipe cleaners for years to prop/hang his up. 

     

  6. Haha
    Tentoes1962 got a reaction from EDDIEKIRK in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    .....and here is a shameful picture of Ashley after she went out drinking with her buddies.....

  7. Thanks
    Tentoes1962 reacted to Backdoor in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    Simple advice for noobies, when you think the plant's done and ready, water it and let it go for another week, and observe how the buds swell. Sometimes the recommended flowering time starts on 12/12 photoperiod flip....and then sometimes it starts when the plant's pistils are about 3/4 inch or so (about 10-14 days after flip...think outdoor with the sun and nature decides when to "flip").
  8. Like
    Tentoes1962 got a reaction from EDDIEKIRK in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    Well I’m already stoned to begin with but even though it wasn’t terrible, it needs time to cure.  I got a LOT of super-“turpeney” flavors and a heady buzz.
     
    Live and learn...
  9. Like
    Tentoes1962 got a reaction from EDDIEKIRK in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    So you say to take a sample from one of the lower flowers/buds of the plant?  Makes sense so as not to injure any higher up that are still growing and probably would make a lot more flower than the lower buds.
  10. Happy
    Tentoes1962 got a reaction from EDDIEKIRK in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    Ok hang on.....”MoooOOM, he said it was okay for me to try a little bit before harvesting and curing!....Can I have some!?”
    .....
    ...
    ...she said okay!
  11. Like
    Tentoes1962 got a reaction from EDDIEKIRK in TW lazy grow journal, lol multiple strains!   
    Well done!!  Amazing quantity of flower from such a small area!!  I see that you are still a fan of White Nightmare......
  12. Like
    Tentoes1962 got a reaction from EDDIEKIRK in TW lazy grow journal, lol multiple strains!   
    Well done!!  Amazing quantity of flower from such a small area!!  I see that you are still a fan of White Nightmare......
  13. Wow
    Tentoes1962 reacted to tumbleweed in TW lazy grow journal, lol multiple strains!   
    Final pics from when chopped a week ago, 9.5z dried in 2x4 tent.
     
     













  14. Thanks
    Tentoes1962 reacted to EDDIEKIRK in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    Yup, They think its fall so they are getting their fall colors. Don't add any extra nitrogen thinking you can fix the yellowing, It's a common mistake. 
  15. Like
    Tentoes1962 got a reaction from EDDIEKIRK in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    Damn thank you!  I had no idea that process would happen.  I had heard and read that withering leaves were a normal process of flowering, but I thought that was due to people intentionally under-watering or under-nourishing in some way.
    I thank you again!
  16. Thanks
    Tentoes1962 reacted to EDDIEKIRK in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    The fan leaves are giving up their nitrogen to the buds. They will naturally yellow, as they do you can pluck them off. If they don't pop right off with a slight tug then leave them, Soon all the fan leaves should yellow and fall off or be plucked off by you. 
     
    The spots look normal. 
  17. Haha
    Tentoes1962 got a reaction from EDDIEKIRK in Fishing in 2020   
    So yesterday I fished Wilsonville pond and with the help of three other people, a chain leader and a truck with a winch I managed (barely) to land this monster.....
     
    I was lucky he didn’t drag me into the water!!
     
    ....seriously though the bite is picking up at the pond but the water level is still very low.

  18. Haha
    Tentoes1962 got a reaction from EDDIEKIRK in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    Well that just sounds bat-shit crazy!!  
     

     
    NO JUST kidding!! Seriously I couldn’t pass that up!
    I will really check with my local nurseries and see what they have, and if they don’t have it I will try on-line.
     
    Thank you Backdoor!
  19. Like
    Tentoes1962 reacted to Backdoor in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    Yes, the number of days are flowering days starting with the first 12 hour dark photoperiod change.
     
    I have seen trichs go from clear, to milky, to cloudy, back to clear and then go directly to amber.
     
    You are at day 35 in flower, and my suggestion is pretend you have a 9 weeker (63 days) and feed her accordingly. Those flowers will bulk up if you allow them. One advice I used to provide for hobby growers is "when you think its time to harvest, wait another 10 -14 days, then decide. You will be amazed what happens after 7 weeks (49 days).
     
    Now remember, THCA converts to THC under these 3 conditions: Time (aging), Light (UVs), and Heat (combusting or vaping). So when you pack a bowl of 2% THC/20% THCA weed, after you light it and inhale, its all THC. Now my Daytime Tinctures contains 14% THCA/86% THC (should have been nearly 80% THCA but the stupid fool Erich (Pharmex) that extracted my Cherry Cobblers was "all hat, no cowboy" and failed). The taste and flavors are remarkably different than the Nighttime Tincture (100% THC). But that's is a story for a different day, as the objective was to create two tinctures within the OMMP network: one dominant in "non-pyscho active" THCA and the other dominant in "pyscho-active" THC.
     
    The Sherwood OMMP dispensary still has a very limited supply of my tinctures and I finally received from La Grande OMMP dispensary's all my tincture inventory (La Grande was not supposed to receive the tincture, they did not want it and were not going to sell the tincture--but the gang at Pharmex thought otherwise days before their OMMP license expired). I will post more tincture information later in a new thread....sorry did not mean or desire to hijack this wonderful thread.
  20. Thanks
    Tentoes1962 reacted to Backdoor in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    For a hobby grow, snipping a few buds a day from a flowering mature plant is one way to experience buds at different stages of maturity.
     
    For a production grow, most will harvest the whole plant and usually all the plants of that batch at the same time.
     
    That said, interesting experiments can be conducted by allowing a plant to mature past its suggested harvest date. Years ago I was growing Chocolope that was insanely aromatic (beautiful rotten tropical fruit) and I decided to flower it 100 days (almost twice the normal 54 days) and wow: Hershey Kisses. It tasted, smelled and smoked just like those foil wrapped chocolate drops.
     
    My buddy years ago, had an jumbo greenhouse plant that he forgot about (high desert in southwest) and around Christmas he discovered his "mistake" and buds were so big they were laying on top of each other, stacks and stacks, that pulling them apart was impossible. The trichomes swelled and behaved like glue and formed "trichome puddles" of sticky goo. Had I not seen the video, I would be calling this a crock of shit...but, my eyes were not lying.
     
    LOL, hazards of unattended automated irrigation always generates "plant growth".
     
    Determining the "harvest date" for new strains is a process, I snip and tag good sized top buds daily for 2-3 weeks (55 -77 days maturity) and conduct my quality assurance and comparative tests. In my garden, the sweet spot is seldom under 60 days; sweet spot for Cherry Cobbler is almost 10 weeks (68 days), Purple Punch is 62ish (plus minus 4 days).
  21. Like
    Tentoes1962 got a reaction from EDDIEKIRK in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    Hi so I have a new question...... most all of the heads of the Trichomes are milky or clear now.  I understand that for a "typical" harvest of "heady" or THC-heavy smoke, that one should harvest about the time when the trichome heads are about 75 to 85% milky and 25 to 15% amber.  Any longer (with a higher percentage of amber trichomes), and the smoke becomes more CBD dominant?  Also will the trichome changes (of color) happen at bud sites all over the plant?  I am sharpening my executioners blade now, but I'd like to know folks' feelings about the best time to harvest.
  22. Like
    Tentoes1962 reacted to Backdoor in Starting a small indoor grow.....   
    Matter of preference, I prefer observing 5% amber on indica dominant plants (best lab numbers), but if the plant is harvested at the moment amber first appears the buds look fresher (and a wee bit smaller) with little to no "dark hairs".
     
    If one wants more THCA (as opposed to delta 9 THC) then harvest prior to amber.
    The last batch of Cherry Cobbler was harvested with 5% amber and lab results were: 27.3% THCA and 2.29% THC (delta 9), 31.3% total cannabinoids.
    The last batch of Purple Punch was harvested with less than 3% amber (a lot less) and lab results were: 22.0% THCA and 0.826% THC (delta 9), 23.6% total cannabinoids .
     
    When labs convert THCA to an equivalent THC (delta 9) they use a 87.7% factor, so total THC = [(THCA x 0.877) = THC (delta 9)]
     
    On the flipside, in my garden buds bulk up and extra 10-20% if I wait until 5% amber--rather than pull at the first sign of amber.
  23. Thanks
    Tentoes1962 reacted to Backdoor in Just a noob’s picture of my ghetto-grow   
    My Cherry Cobbler has red, brown, tan, gold, as well as yellow and white "hairs". Strain specific I say.
  24. Like
    Tentoes1962 reacted to Purple Power in Pest: Fungus Gnats   
    Pest: Fungus Gnats
     
     (Families Mycetophilidae (Order: Diptera), Sciaridae, Excechia, Diadocidiidae, Keroplatidae, and, Bolitophilidae)
     
     

     
     
    Special Species Notes:
     
     
    A common pest of plants grown indoors, especially where humidity and moisture are high.  Fungus Gnats can be told apart from Whiteflies because they're dingy grey instead of pure white. Larvae are most damaging to seedlings, cuttings and young plants.
     
    Fungus Gnat larvae, small worms found in the top inch or two of your soil, feed mostly on organic debris. While doing this, they often nibble the roots of young seedlings.
     
    Some fungus gnats are exceptionally hardy, they able to tolerate cold conditions through their possession of antifreeze proteins. overwintering organisms can either avoid freezing or tolerate freezing, but Excechia nugatoria can do both. For E. nugatoria, the production of noncolligative antifreeze proteins which protect the head and thorax from freezing, but they do not protect the abdomen. By allowing the abdomen to freeze, evaporative water loss is reduced over the course of the winter, and is the only insect known to semi-freeze through the winter.
     
     
    First signs:
     
    They’re usually first noticed when the harmless adults are seen flying around house plants or gathered at a nearby window or light. They are attracted to light. Small, dingy grey, non-biting flies, flying around plants aimlessly. If these "flies" are also seen coming out of the soil around your plants, you probably have Fungus Gnats. But it’s the larval stage, feeding in the soil, that can damage tender plant roots.
     
    Plants may have sudden wilting, loss of vigor, poor growth, and yellowing. With severe infestations, a considerable portion of the plants may be lost.
     
    Larvae, however, when present in large numbers, can damage roots and stunt plant growth, particularly in seedlings and young plants. Significant root damage and even plant death have been observed in interior plants when high populations are associated with moist, organically-rich soil.
     
    plant that is wilting may not indicate a lack of water, but rather root damage by fungus gnat larvae or (more commonly) other causes of unhealthy roots. However, too much or too little water, root decay fungi, and improper soil conditions (e.g., poor drainage, or waterlogging) are much more common causes of wilted plants.
     
     
     
    IDENTIFICATION:
     
    Adults are delicate, grayish black, mosquito-like flies with long slender legs with segmented antennae that are longer than their head. Their long antennae distinguish them from the more robust shore flies, and one pair of clear wings. Fungus gnats (Orfelia and Bradysia species), also called darkwinged fungus gnats (Sciaridae), are dark, delicate-looking flies similar in appearance to mosquitoes. Although a few species are up to 1⁄2 inch long, fungus gnat adults commonly are about 1⁄16 to 1⁄8 inch long. Wings are light gray to clear, and the common Bradysia species have a Y -shaped wing vein.
     
    They are not strong fliers and emerge from potted plants, especially when watering. They usually don’t move around much indoors. Fungus gnats often remain near potted plants and run across (or rest on) growing media, foliage, compost, and wet mulch piles. Females lay tiny eggs in moist organic debris or potting soil.
     

     
     
    Larvae or maggots (1/4 inch) have a shiny black head and an elongated, whitish to transparent legless body. They are most abundant in damp, rich soils and feed on root hairs, fungi, debris, algae, and other organic materials. If conditions are especially moist and fungus gnats are abundant, larvae can leave slime trails on the surface of media that look like trails from small snails or slugs.
     
     

     
    Shiny trails on soil by fungus gnat larvea
     
     
    Serious fungus gnat damage is more common in greenhouses, nurseries, and sod farms. Although larvae also feed on plant roots outdoors, they don’t usually cause serious damage.
     
     
    Life cycle:
     
    Because of their proclivity and relative short gestation, potted plants can host each stage, — egg, larvae (four larval stages or instars), pupae, adult — in multiple generations at once. The entire life cycle from egg to adult may be completed in as little as 3-4 weeks depending on temperature.
     
    Adults live about one week and lay up to 300 eggs in rich, moist soils.
     
    Within 3-6 days tiny larvae emerge and begin feeding on plant roots during their two week period. At 75ºF, eggs hatch in about 3 days, The warmer it is, the faster they will develop and the more generations will be produced. The larvae take approximately 10 days to develop into pupae. The pupal stage lasts 3-4 days before young adults emerges from the soil and begin the next generation.
     
    Because of this remedies usually require repeated applications until there are no surviving eggs.
    What they eat:
    Moist and decomposing grass clippings, compost, leaf mold, organic fertilizers, root hairs, fungi,  and organic mulches
    Controls: Yellow sticky traps Diatomaceous Earth: http://freemygreenpdx.com/topic/14332-diatomaceous-earth-de/
    For presentation
     
    Inspect plants thoroughly prior to purchase or accepting donation for signs of insect pests. Turn up soil carefully near the base of the plant and look for the glossy, clear larvae. Either reject any plant sending up flying gnats or if you have a quarantine area, place them there and address the pests: http://freemygreenpdx.com/topic/14249-quarantine-what-is-it-and-why-do-i-need-to/
     
    Fungus gnats do best in damp soils; be careful not to overwater, especially during winter months when plants use less. When potting, avoid water holding, organic material such as peat moss that may encourage egg laying. Clean up standing water, if they is water in the saucer, dump it. Improve the drainage of the potting mix.
     
    If pests are present, allow the soil to dry to a depth of one to two inches between watering. This not only kills larvae and inhibits the development of eggs, it also makes the soil less attractive to egg-laying females.
     
    Avoid fertilizing with excessive amounts of manure, blood meal, or similar organic materials.
    If you have infested plants, don’t move them to new areas where flies can emerge to infest other pots.
     
    Avoid using incompletely-composted organic matter in potting media unless it is pasteurized first, because it will often be infested with fungus gnats.
     
    The pasteurized process is also called, Soil Solarization. It is a nonchemical method for controlling soilborne pests using high temperatures produced by capturing radiant energy from the sun. When properly done, the top 6 inches of the soil will heat up to as high as 140°F, depending on the location. The plastic sheets allow the sun’s radiant energy to be trapped in the soil, heating the top 12 to 18 inches and killing a wide range of soilborne pests, such as weeds, pathogens, nematodes, and insects. greatest at the surface of the soil and decreases at deeper soil depths. The maximum temperature of soil solarized in the field is usually 108° to 131°F at a depth of 2 inches and 90° to 99°F at 18 inches. Control of soil pests is usually best for organisms found in the upper 6 inches of earth. Soil solarization also speeds up the breakdown of organic material in the soil, often resulting in the added benefit of release of soluble nutrients such as nitrogen (N03-, NH4+), calcium (Ca++), magnesium (Mg++), potassium (K+), and fulvic acid, making them more available to plants.
     
    To pasteurized potting soil, it is done with heat or steam before using it; this will kill flies and the algae and microorganisms they feed on.
     
    1.  Moisten it.
     
    2.  Place it in a bag of transparent plastic or black plastic.
     
    3.  Make the pile no deeper than about 8 inches.
     
    4.  Place the bagged soil on a slightly elevated surface, such as a pallet in a sunny location, for       about 4 to 6 weeks.
     
    Raw potato chunks placed in the soil are very attractive to fungus gnat larvae. The cut side down facing soil. These may be used not only to check pots for larvae but also to trap them away from plant roots. After a few days in a pot, remove infested chunks, dispose of them, and replace with fresh ones.
     
    Insecticides:
     
    Pyrethrins or a pyrethroid insecticide may provide temporary, fast-acting control. Spray the surface of potting soil and plant parts where adults typically rest. Do not aerially fog indoors or attempt to spray adult gnats in flight. they often are more effective and persistent but are more toxic to beneficial insects.
     
    Beneficial insects:
     
    Predator Nematodes(long-term control, species Steinernema feltiae) http://freemygreenpdx.com/topic/14383-beneficial-predatory-nematodes/
     Fungus Gnat Predators (Hypoaspis sp.)
     
    Biological insecticide Bacillus thuringiensis subspecies israelensis (Bti). Bti does not reproduce or persist indoors, so infestations in potting media might require repeated applications at about five-day intervals to provide control.
     
    Bti and nematodes can be mixed with water, can be applied as a soil drench, or spray onto media using a hand-pump spray bottle or other spray equipment, following label directions.
     
    Predatory hunter flies, Coenosia spp. These flies catch and consume adult fungus gnats in mid-air, and prey on fungus gnat larvae in soil while developing as larvae themselves.
     
    Mycorrhizae should help repair the damage/ grow roots faster: http://freemygreenpdx.com/topic/14315-mycorrhizae-and-the-roots/
     
     
    The link below will take you to "An Intro to beneficial bugs and beneficial insect food" it has a list (been worked on) to pests and beneficial insects
     
    http://freemygreenpdx.com/topic/14334-an-intro-to-benefical-bugs-and-beneficial-insect-food/?p=124257
  25. Thanks
    Tentoes1962 reacted to Backdoor in Just a noob’s picture of my ghetto-grow   
    When fighting unwanted pests, instead of attacking the pest with the same weapon (Mode of Action) over and over, I gained the best success with a rotation of "cides" with different MOA.

    WTF is MOA? Insecticide Resistance Action Committee (IRAC) is the recognized authority that has grouped and classified insecticidal compounds, bacterial agents, extracts and crude oils, fungal agents, mechanical disruptors, peptides and viruses (aka "cides") based on their "mode of action". IRAC currently has 32 numbered and 5 unnumbered MOA classifications.
     
    https://irac-online.org/modes-of-action/ 
     
    Primary Groups are:
     
    Nerve and Muscle Targets
    Most current insecticides act on nerve and muscle targets. Insecticides that act on these targets are generally fast acting.
     
    Growth and Development Targets
    Insect development is controlled by the balance of two principal hormones: juvenile hormone and ecdysone. Insect growth regulators act by mimicking one of these hormones or directly perturbing cuticle formation/deposition or lipid biosynthesis. Insecticides that act on individual targets in this system are generally slow to moderately slow acting.
     
    Respiration Targets
    Mitochondrial respiration produces ATP, the molecule that energizes all vital cellular processes. In mitochondria, an electron transport chain stores the energy released by oxidation in the form of a proton gradient, which drives ATP synthesis. Several insecticides are known to interfere with mitochondrial respiration by the inhibition of electron transport and/or oxidative phosphorylation. Insecticides that act on individual targets in this system are generally fast to moderately fast acting.
     
    Midgut Targets
    Lepidopteran-specific microbial toxins that are sprayed or expressed in transgenic crop varieties, and baculoviruses.
     
    Unknown or non-specific Targets
    Several insecticides are known to affect less well-described target-sites or functions, or to act non-specifically on multiple targets.
     
    Example:
    Pyrethrins are considered Nerve and Muscle Targets, #3 Sodium Channel Modulators
    BTI is considered Midgut Tartgets, #11 Microbial disruptors of insect midgut membranes
    Diatomaceous Earth (DE) is considered Unknown or non-specific Targets, #UNM Non-specific mechanical disruptors
    Neem Oil is considered Unknown or non-specific Targets, #UNE Botanical essence including synthetic, extracts and unrefined oils with unknown or uncertain MoA
     
    IMO, to obtain the best results for both the plant and consumer, one must also know the half-life of their weapon. Some cides have a half-life greater than 200 days and some are hours. It depends.
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