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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/24/2020 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Thank you, @BCandyQueen , for the hand made gifts. You are so sweet. I love the candle. Please feel free to reach out and buy some from our friend and member @BCandyQueen
  2. 2 points
    Backdoor

    Starting a new grow (indoor)

    One should assume that all the organic nutrients from your spent soil are no mas; I assume that after 70 days after application, about 75% of Plant Available Nitrogen (PAN) has already been released. I found this study quite helpful. https://extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/default/files/documents/1/sullivanetal2010worldcongresssoilscience.pdf Some growing philosophies have certain dogmas that require the root ball to remain intact, others don't. I am in the camp of reclaiming soil and remove rootballs. Regarding applications of Mycorrhiza, this root helping fungi should be placed as close to the root as possible. For cuttings I provide copious amounts (500 spores per gram--available in Myco Jordan by Elite) to the cutting grow medium and further root dustings at each transplant. For seedlings, adding a good amount to the seedling grow medium should be sufficient. For rootings and cuttings, I mix my own grow medium equal parts of Peat and Vermiculite that is amended with CalPhos, Gypsum, Dolomite and Myco Jordan; I stay away from heavy charged grow medium. By mixing my own, I can guarantee my freshness and quality of inputs. The last pre-mixed bagged grow medium I bought must have been 30 years ago (before I started followed Biodynamics for my veggie garden--long before my cannabis growing days); I found the inconsistencies from bag to bag way too extreme. Do this yourself, test samples from different bags. Seldom did I find the results to be consistent; and not knowing how fresh the medium is (lack of production date)--was it made last month? Last month? Two years ago? And temperature during shipping--how many hours did the bag bake in the sun (exceeding 100 degrees)? Nahh, too many unknowns for this old perfectionist to be happy. Seedling/Rooting mix: 1 gal Sphagnum Peat 1 gal Vermiculite 18 grams Myco Jordon 50 grams Dolomite 9 grams Calphos 9 grams Gypsum Mix well then add 11 oz water Let sit for 2-3 days (allowing the PH to adjust). Lighting--I would be cautious of using high UVB lamps (5000k), sometimes the new leafs don't like the direct UVB intensity. I use 4000k or less--or make sure there is at least a 24" distance between lamps and plant. Instead of tossing a dash of this, a pinch of that or worst yet--following "bro science", I would insure that your grow medium is charged for cannabis. The best numbers I have seen is from Smart Fertilizer https://www.smart-fertilizer.com/articles/nutrient-management-cannabis/ 350 ppm = 0.035% Nitrogen For a grow medium that weighs 10 lbs (4,540 grams), you would add 1.589 grams of N. (4540 grams X 0.035% = 1.589 grams)...350 ppm N. Since Blood Meal contains 14% Nitrogen, then you would add 11.35 grams of Blood Meal (1.589 grams ÷ 14% = 11.35 grams) So the question is: How much nutrients do I add to achieve the desired ppm's? Hope this helps.
  3. 2 points
    Here are some just to show you !! I love and enjoy making candles although they can be challenging, I enjoy it . Soaps I love creating my own recipes and finding what best for . It’s therapeutic!!
  4. 2 points
    I make a different variety, although lots of lavender and clove . I definitely love my lavender clove and the orange clove was a big hit as well . The therapeutic feel you receive as your washing it’s amazing , depending on which one your able to start your day off well with aromatherapy while you shower or bath. . I enjoy all of my soaps !!
  5. 2 points
    Ahh thank you so much ! It’s definitely all I use is my own soap !! Thank you 😊
  6. 2 points
    Backdoor

    curing your medicine

    This old guy appreciates sharing secrets that work.
  7. 2 points
    Backdoor

    curing your medicine

    I subscribe to the 65/65 rule. Target environment is darkness at 65% humidity and 65° F with a goodly amount of air circulation.. Chlorophyll is the thing that can make a delicious bud to become "pitui". Some swear that flushing plants that were grown using organic principles is the the key. I disagree. The thing that separates the men from the boys is drying/curing (period). When one uses organic principles, flushing is not needed--unless you subscribe to stoner logic (then follow bro science, as it is always irrefutable). Slow and easy is what works for me--longer the better. If speed, haste, fast and "prematurity" (premature withdrawal) is employed, then you will be blessed with that god awful hay smell (too fast of a dry). My dry time ranges between 7-12 days, while 3-5 day dry scares the shit out of me. OK, what can I do to remove the hay thing? Believe it or not, I have had great success with a simple trick of re-hydrating the vegetative matter then "re-drying it" slow and easy at 65/65. My method of re-hydrating is to jack up the humidity, then re-dry it slow and easy. Place buds in a air/water tight container (I use 5 gallon food grade buckets with Gamma lids to achieve air/water tight seal) and suspended above the buds but below the Gamma lid inside the bucket I tape (blue painters tape) either a moistened paper towel or better yet, try those cotton pads our ladies use to remove makeup, then toss a hygrometer on top of the buds and seal it and check it every 24 hours or so. When the humidity increases to 70%, then do the traditional curing burping thing, until it drops to 65°. Regarding using those Bovida styled humidity packs, please suspend them above your herb--and never let them come in contact with your flowers. Tossing them in a canning jar mixed with your buds is the worst thing you can do, imo. Experience has taught me buds that come in contact with the humidity packs degrade faster, can generate a (cough cough) harsher smoke and can change the bud's texture. Cigar aficionados never allow the humidity packs to touch cigars...maybe they know something we don't. So, my vote is a food grade 5 gallon bucket with an air/water tight Gamma Lid for the perfect curing vehicle; no off odor and perfect cure everytime. If you must use those humidity packs (which are reusable when dried out) DON'T EVER LET THEM COME IN CONTACT WITH YOUR WEED. Just saying.
  8. 2 points
    popeye!

    curing your medicine

    Yes this is normal @Tentoes1962 what your smelling is the chlorophyll breaking down keep the plants hanging for about 3 weeks or until you can pinch the buds and you smell the terps from the plants and not the chlorophyll when you get to that point then trim and jar it up if u jar it to early the chlorophyll will try to break down in the jars and then u will get that smell stuck in the buds I've seen it happen way way to many times I usually leave my plants hanging 3-4 weeks now days
  9. 2 points
    Purple Power

    RIP Speckles

    RIP Speckles, 2/27/18 to 9/9/2020. She died as a result to the fire set a few blocks from my house on Weds. She was an endangered breed, Speckled Sussex. I raised Speckles since she was 2 days old. She, like all of my pets, are my babies. It doesn't matter if they are a dog, cat, or chicken, I love and spoil all of them more then I did for my human ones. Speckles laid every day and was one of my winter layers. She was one of my lap hens, that would enjoy pets while telling me what's going on in the flock. Some times Speckles would lay an egg on my lap. She'd follow me around the yard while talking up a storm demanding pets. When she'd molt, her feathers would have more white tips then before. Her sisters and the hen that helped to raise her (Feisty) miss her very much. Speckles has been gone for a few days now and they are still looking and calling for her. I know there is a chance that Feisty will go broody once she relies that Speckles is gone as she has done this in the past. I'm researching endangered breeds and thinking of getting one each: Speckled Sussex. Delaware, and 55 Flowery hen. The question is if where I get my chicks is still standing and have them. +5
  10. 2 points
    Well done!! Amazing quantity of flower from such a small area!! I see that you are still a fan of White Nightmare......
  11. 2 points
    Final pics from when chopped a week ago, 9.5z dried in 2x4 tent.
  12. 2 points
    Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Matter of preference, I prefer observing 5% amber on indica dominant plants (best lab numbers), but if the plant is harvested at the moment amber first appears the buds look fresher (and a wee bit smaller) with little to no "dark hairs". If one wants more THCA (as opposed to delta 9 THC) then harvest prior to amber. The last batch of Cherry Cobbler was harvested with 5% amber and lab results were: 27.3% THCA and 2.29% THC (delta 9), 31.3% total cannabinoids. The last batch of Purple Punch was harvested with less than 3% amber (a lot less) and lab results were: 22.0% THCA and 0.826% THC (delta 9), 23.6% total cannabinoids . When labs convert THCA to an equivalent THC (delta 9) they use a 87.7% factor, so total THC = [(THCA x 0.877) = THC (delta 9)] On the flipside, in my garden buds bulk up and extra 10-20% if I wait until 5% amber--rather than pull at the first sign of amber.
  13. 2 points
    Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Foliar feeding? Rainwater usually has a low ph and can contain particles (dust) that may or may not be beneficial to cannabis. One must remember, cannabis plants are "accumulators", they excel in absorbing and accumulating chemical compounds from soil--perfect for phytoremediation. Remember Chernobyl? Yep, pot vs nukes and pot wins. Hence I filter the well water I use for my garden and, oddly as it may seem, I use municipal water (which contains chlorine) to hold my cuttings in water before popping them in plugs. Well water has a higher level of bacteria causes the stems to get mushy.
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
    First, I squeak when I walk (tight ass) and since I have more time than money--I must always balance my genetic defect: I am both perfectionist and a connoisseur of fine things; that said let's discuss benefit over cost. On one extreme--if one waters a containerized plant just shy to the point of runoff, then the possibility of grow medium dry spots is greater (water flows vertical with gravity--and will water tension will cause it to flow horizontal). Now let's swing the pendulum to the opposite side: if one waters excessively, then goodness is being leached away and if the runoff sits int he saucer, then the grow medium will become anaerobic . Somewhere in between is the Goldilocks answer (not too much, not too little, but just right). The best test is for you water same sized pots with your grow medium and compare the results when using different water quantities. Here's is what I did, took a #5 plastic container made 2x2" square cutout windows along the sides, lined the inside with clear plastic and observed what happens with different watering techniques. As I adjusted my grow medium ingredients, I would observe how the water moved inside the container. Watering just until runoff began to dribble caused half the grow medium to remain dry. Watering until excess runoff caused complete saturation and leaving the water in the saucer caused the grow medium at the bottom center to never dry and had the lowest root growth. Watering until 10-20% runoff caused the grow medium to be 75% wet...and when I let the runoff to wick back to the grow medium I observed the bottom portion of the grow medium to be wet while the top surface (1") was dry. Watering with runoff does seem to create more "tunnels" and crevices within the grow medium, some smarter people suggest these become pathways for roots. So, what would I do--pack a container with grow medium, water the grow medium like you normally do, wait about half hour and then flip the container upside down, remove the container and observe the grow medium. Notice how the moisture is not even. Fast forward to today. I use a combination bottom wicking (layer of orchid bark at the bottom of the container) and target 10-20% runoff, and allow it to be absorbed. Results, I have roots growing out of my drain holes...btw I changed to those grow bags instead of soft sided fabric grow pots, which I changed a few years ago after decades of using hard sided plastic containers. Best answer will always be the Goldilocks solution...what works "just right for you".
  17. 2 points
    Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Regarding runoff: It is best to water any containerized plant to the point where there is 10-20% runoff. I water my plant with half gallon of water (64oz) then I expect to see 6-12 oz of water in the saucer. Is it best to remove the runoff? Yes. If you are wicking from the bottom, then the above rule DOES NOT APPLY. Different rules.
  18. 2 points
    Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Sorry for being AWOL for the past week or so, but life can be a blur in the fast lane. For a simple "crawling critter spray" that works on ants, fungus gnats, springtails, water beetles, etc...and not harmful to pets or wee ones, try this concoction: For 1 gallon: 2.5 ml Pyrethrin (5%) 7.5 ml of Neem Oil (biodegradable organic pesticide) 8 oz of Diatomaceous Earth (I prefer foodgrade variety: Fossil Shell Flour (FSF) as it is sourced from fresh water sources) Pour half the water in a container, add ingredients in order listed, and upon dumping the DE, immediately cover container for a 30 seconds or so (don't want to breath silica diatoms), then mix well and add water to the 1 gallon mark. MIx well and use a heavy duty chemical type spray bottle. Shake continuously to prevent the DE from separating. Modes of Action: Pyrethrin induces a neurotoxic effect Neem induces a ovicidal and larvicidal effect DE (amorphous silica gel) absorbs oils and fats found in the critters cuticles (causing them to dry out and die) and the diatom's sharp edges slice and dice the critter to pieces. Combining both Pryrethrin and Neem with DE provides me with an excellent synergistic critter spray. I recall root aphid study where Neem and DE did nothing when used separately, but ranked first when the two were combined. Similar results with Pryethrin and DE...Pyrethrin half life nearly doubled when mixed with diatoms. Don't mind the light powdery overspray as it will harm nothing and can be swept/mopped up later (if you want, but I don't). Great for ridding kitchen ants too--spray the outlets, holes, cracks and enjoy months of ant free kitchen. Hope this helps.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Backdoor

    curing your medicine

    I guess if you wanted to jack up the humidity to exactly 75% before taking it back down to 60-65% range, that would be one path to that destination. Me, I just tape a few of those moistened cotton pads (the kind my wife uses to remove makeup) to the bucket lid, toss in a hygrometer and seal it up for a day. Easy peasy.
  21. 1 point
    Graywolf

    Graywolfslair blog site open

    Graywolf's Lair blog site is now open and includes The Alchemist Resource. Check out 10.0 @: https://graywolfslair.com/index.php/home
  22. 1 point
    Tentoes1962

    Fishing in 2020

    Well it the two fish didn't exactly make enough for a real "fish fry", but enough to feed me and my wife. Poor guys were deep-fried with light breading and were delicious.
  23. 1 point
    Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Oh, compared to the smartest peeps I've met, I am a mere midget in a land of giants. What I know today, is because years ago I did not know much. What I will know in the future, will because of things I don't know today. Remember, I'm and old guy and everyday I try to learn something new; which is easy in a world with swift technological advances. Yes, UV-A/B are good generators of terps. When I ran HPS lamps, I had a simple routine that blessed me with killer potency. For the first few weeks (during stretch) I used Metal Halide 7.2K Kelvin (Plantmax 600w) https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/115289/PX-MS6007200.html , then 1000w HPS (3k) for blooming, then for the final 3 weeks I used Metal Halide 10k (Plantmax 600w) https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/88311/PX-MPS60010K.html . And I imposed water deficits during the final weeks, but harvested plants fully hydrated. That routine produced killer buds, then I migrated to full spectrum Ceramic Metal Halide 315 watt lamps and haven't looked back. These 315 watt bulbs produce ample UV-A/B and produces a light spectrum that is almost identical to the sun, and is comparable to output of 600 watt HPS (with about half the energy). BTW, I haven't forgot about the saucer, draining and runoff discussion. I searching for some worksheets and procedures that I've downloaded years ago and will present those later. I forgot how important and beneficial it is to use good watering techniques, and hopefully improve the quality and yield without the need for overpriced bottles with labels containing cartoon characters. Pure technique.
  24. 1 point
    Do you have plans to transplant them soon? They are getting pretty big for those cups. Also, have a small fan blowing by them to help strengthen the stalks up. Are they going outside? Thanks for showing them to us.
  25. 1 point
    Stubs O'Kief

    Good News for Canadians

    Canada is now the second country to legalize recreational cannabis nationwide. Congrats neighbors! https://www.cbsnews.com/news/canada-legalized-marijuana-senate-bill-passes-today-2018-06-19/

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