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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/23/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points

    My Tincture is my dregs bottle..

    Stop putting it in water. Try milk instead, so there are fats present to absorb the essential oil. The plant waxes, as well as the cannabinoids are non polar so they are not as attractive to the alcohol as highly polar water. When you mix them, the polar alcohol divorces the non polar elements in favor of the polar water.
  2. 3 points
    Thank you, @BCandyQueen , for the hand made gifts. You are so sweet. I love the candle. Please feel free to reach out and buy some from our friend and member @BCandyQueen
  3. 2 points
    Stubs O'Kief

    My Tincture is my dregs bottle..

    Likely a mix of all three. Those oils and waxes are soluble in high concentrations of ethanol at room temp, but once it's dropped into a big glass of cold water, those oils and waxes are now insoluble and will have a tendency to stick to the glass. I wouldn't be surprised if you were losing a good fraction of the product to the sides of the glass. I'm sure some of the cannabis extract is suspended in the water long enough to get some into ya, but a lot of that goodness is just sticking to the sides of the glass. I'm not too familiar with the chemistry of chlorophyll, but in my experience, the chlorophyll extracted from cannabis in alcohol extractions doesn't seem particularly soluble in water. I have progressively added water to cannabis extract in ethanol and it "louched" like when water is added to absinthe or pastis (it formed an emulsion). It left cannabis extract residue on the sides of the glass just like that. The process didn't seem to remove chlorophyll from the extract to the water to any noticeable degree. Those waxes and oils are both soluble in room temperature ethanol (they are dissolved in the ethanol), but they are not soluble in water. Because both waxes and oils are hydrophobic, those oils and waxes will bunch up together and eventually visibly separate from the water as you see in your photo. Personally I'd just change my method of consumption to avoid the problem altogether. Maybe just eat it on something? Hopefully this makes sense, pretty well medicated right now, so my apologies if this turns out to be incoherent ramblings. If anything doesn't make sense, just ask for clarification and I'll stop on by when I've landed back on planet earth.
  4. 2 points
    And if one wants to cough up a lung or two, then smoke some "bud rot" cannabis that's dusted with a generous sprinkling of aphid carcasses. IMO, life is too short to smoke shit weed. Lesson learned: inspect your crop at least 2x week and seek the least evasive/destructive solution. My first weapon of choice to attack leaf critters is "Bug Blaster BBN". It is a hose attachment that blasts aphids (under and on top of the leaf) with plain water (no poisons). Take your plant outside, connect to hose and spray under/over all leaves, then say good bye to aphids, spider mites, etc. For obvious reasons, I would use with great caution on flowering plants.
  5. 2 points
    Botrytis produces no known aflatoxins and its spores and filiments can be removed from a concentrate by filtering at 0.2 microns with a syringe filter, which removes the odor and flavor. Botrytis is the same mold that is used to produce Grand Cru wines, but some people can have a Type I allergic reaction to the spores and mycelium.
  6. 2 points
    I scored the Vivosun from Amazon last year for $199.99; ballast is built in the fixture. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WGLXKZJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Available here for more https://www.walmart.com/ip/VIVOSUN-315W-Ceramic-Metal-Halide-CMH-Grow-Light-Fixture-Builtin-Ballast-Kit/884827230?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0 And here for $10 cheaper https://www.ebay.com/i/313188461883?chn=ps Different fixture, but complete kit with hangers and 3100k lamp (not Philips) https://growace.com/yield-lab-professional-series-120-220v-315w-all-in-one-hood-cmh-complete-grow-light-kit.html And here a bit cheaper (free shipping) https://www.ebay.com/itm/315W-CMH-CDM-Grow-light-kit-W-3100k-Bulb-VERTICAL-Reflector-Ceramic-Metal-Halide-/313019566448?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10. If you decide to buy fixture and ballast separately, Phantom and Advance ballasts are highly rated. And, make sure the bulb position is in the downward/vertical position. A single 315w bulb is almost equal to HPS 600w, and has a footprint of 3' x 3' for flower and 4' x 4' for veg.
  7. 2 points

    Starting a new grow (indoor)

    One should assume that all the organic nutrients from your spent soil are no mas; I assume that after 70 days after application, about 75% of Plant Available Nitrogen (PAN) has already been released. I found this study quite helpful. https://extension.oregonstate.edu/sites/default/files/documents/1/sullivanetal2010worldcongresssoilscience.pdf Some growing philosophies have certain dogmas that require the root ball to remain intact, others don't. I am in the camp of reclaiming soil and remove rootballs. Regarding applications of Mycorrhiza, this root helping fungi should be placed as close to the root as possible. For cuttings I provide copious amounts (500 spores per gram--available in Myco Jordan by Elite) to the cutting grow medium and further root dustings at each transplant. For seedlings, adding a good amount to the seedling grow medium should be sufficient. For rootings and cuttings, I mix my own grow medium equal parts of Peat and Vermiculite that is amended with CalPhos, Gypsum, Dolomite and Myco Jordan; I stay away from heavy charged grow medium. By mixing my own, I can guarantee my freshness and quality of inputs. The last pre-mixed bagged grow medium I bought must have been 30 years ago (before I started followed Biodynamics for my veggie garden--long before my cannabis growing days); I found the inconsistencies from bag to bag way too extreme. Do this yourself, test samples from different bags. Seldom did I find the results to be consistent; and not knowing how fresh the medium is (lack of production date)--was it made last month? Last month? Two years ago? And temperature during shipping--how many hours did the bag bake in the sun (exceeding 100 degrees)? Nahh, too many unknowns for this old perfectionist to be happy. Seedling/Rooting mix: 1 gal Sphagnum Peat 1 gal Vermiculite 18 grams Myco Jordon 50 grams Dolomite 9 grams Calphos 9 grams Gypsum Mix well then add 11 oz water Let sit for 2-3 days (allowing the PH to adjust). Lighting--I would be cautious of using high UVB lamps (5000k), sometimes the new leafs don't like the direct UVB intensity. I use 4000k or less--or make sure there is at least a 24" distance between lamps and plant. Instead of tossing a dash of this, a pinch of that or worst yet--following "bro science", I would insure that your grow medium is charged for cannabis. The best numbers I have seen is from Smart Fertilizer https://www.smart-fertilizer.com/articles/nutrient-management-cannabis/ 350 ppm = 0.035% Nitrogen For a grow medium that weighs 10 lbs (4,540 grams), you would add 1.589 grams of N. (4540 grams X 0.035% = 1.589 grams)...350 ppm N. Since Blood Meal contains 14% Nitrogen, then you would add 11.35 grams of Blood Meal (1.589 grams ÷ 14% = 11.35 grams) So the question is: How much nutrients do I add to achieve the desired ppm's? Hope this helps.
  8. 2 points
    Here are some just to show you !! I love and enjoy making candles although they can be challenging, I enjoy it . Soaps I love creating my own recipes and finding what best for . It’s therapeutic!!
  9. 2 points
    I make a different variety, although lots of lavender and clove . I definitely love my lavender clove and the orange clove was a big hit as well . The therapeutic feel you receive as your washing it’s amazing , depending on which one your able to start your day off well with aromatherapy while you shower or bath. . I enjoy all of my soaps !!
  10. 2 points
    Ahh thank you so much ! It’s definitely all I use is my own soap !! Thank you 😊
  11. 2 points

    curing your medicine

    This old guy appreciates sharing secrets that work.
  12. 2 points

    curing your medicine

    I subscribe to the 65/65 rule. Target environment is darkness at 65% humidity and 65° F with a goodly amount of air circulation.. Chlorophyll is the thing that can make a delicious bud to become "pitui". Some swear that flushing plants that were grown using organic principles is the the key. I disagree. The thing that separates the men from the boys is drying/curing (period). When one uses organic principles, flushing is not needed--unless you subscribe to stoner logic (then follow bro science, as it is always irrefutable). Slow and easy is what works for me--longer the better. If speed, haste, fast and "prematurity" (premature withdrawal) is employed, then you will be blessed with that god awful hay smell (too fast of a dry). My dry time ranges between 7-12 days, while 3-5 day dry scares the shit out of me. OK, what can I do to remove the hay thing? Believe it or not, I have had great success with a simple trick of re-hydrating the vegetative matter then "re-drying it" slow and easy at 65/65. My method of re-hydrating is to jack up the humidity, then re-dry it slow and easy. Place buds in a air/water tight container (I use 5 gallon food grade buckets with Gamma lids to achieve air/water tight seal) and suspended above the buds but below the Gamma lid inside the bucket I tape (blue painters tape) either a moistened paper towel or better yet, try those cotton pads our ladies use to remove makeup, then toss a hygrometer on top of the buds and seal it and check it every 24 hours or so. When the humidity increases to 70%, then do the traditional curing burping thing, until it drops to 65°. Regarding using those Bovida styled humidity packs, please suspend them above your herb--and never let them come in contact with your flowers. Tossing them in a canning jar mixed with your buds is the worst thing you can do, imo. Experience has taught me buds that come in contact with the humidity packs degrade faster, can generate a (cough cough) harsher smoke and can change the bud's texture. Cigar aficionados never allow the humidity packs to touch cigars...maybe they know something we don't. So, my vote is a food grade 5 gallon bucket with an air/water tight Gamma Lid for the perfect curing vehicle; no off odor and perfect cure everytime. If you must use those humidity packs (which are reusable when dried out) DON'T EVER LET THEM COME IN CONTACT WITH YOUR WEED. Just saying.
  13. 2 points

    curing your medicine

    Yes this is normal @Tentoes1962 what your smelling is the chlorophyll breaking down keep the plants hanging for about 3 weeks or until you can pinch the buds and you smell the terps from the plants and not the chlorophyll when you get to that point then trim and jar it up if u jar it to early the chlorophyll will try to break down in the jars and then u will get that smell stuck in the buds I've seen it happen way way to many times I usually leave my plants hanging 3-4 weeks now days
  14. 1 point
    Here, I suggest this for your photography - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B14N16T. You can shoot through it or move it 45 degrees to either side. Gives you much flexibility if your camera is on a tripod showing live view, you can see what looks best. I bought this for zoom, but ya know my trick? A chinese paper lantern covering a strobe on a stand, its a lightweight softbox.
  15. 1 point
    Thanks for sending your private info, all the private forums are now open to you. be sure and let us know if you're having trouble navigating the website. EK
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    No taste, reminds me when I experimented with "water curing" on some weed that I tried to fix. I was given some Kush that was poorly dried and after coughing up both lungs, I tried the water cure thing. It actually cleaned it up; but too much. The buds were no longer harsh and lost all flavor/taste. IMO, flavor/taste and aroma/bouquet is about half the game of enjoying a good bong hit. Especially for those that prefer dry, bongs (no water, no ice) and find the taste of combusted trichs and terps to be heaven; almost like angel's tears. I'll put to the readers of this post the same question I was asked about 15 years ago, "If the weed you smoke is properly grown, dried and cured, then why do you fuck it up by filtering the smoke with bong water?" I could not rebut with any scientific reasoning or "stoner logic" wisdom--just "bro science" that "everyone does it". And you know what? He was right, and from that day forward, wifey and I smoke naked dry bongs and both our olfactory systems do not miss the aromatic stench of bong water; not one little bit. Back to the dilemma of your weed lacking taste...next time you're outside, look up and ask yourself, "what does that bright ball of fire in the sky have, that my CFL lamps lack?" and then read this brief article https://www.biologydiscussion.com/photosynthesis/physical-nature-of-light-in-plants/39817 With special emphasis on these two graphics-- Chlorophyll a, gives absorption peaks at 430 nm (Violet) and 662 nm (Red), while Chlorophyll b gives peaks at 453 nm (Blue) and 642 nm (Red). Not sure if the following CFL spectra matches your CFL, but when matching the above Absorption spectrum peaks (or lack thereof) of the Violet, Blue and Red to the graph below, do we see deficiency in Relative Spectral Power? Blues are barely at 20 and Reds around 40 and kinda miss the targeted wavelengths 453 nm, 642 nm and 662 nm. Now the spectra for the lamps I use (Philip's CMH 315/942 4200k) Almost all spectrum range is in the 20s, with Blue and Red in the 60s. Methinks your 5000k CFL bulb is not a friend to your buds when it comes to delivering taste and flavors. Photosynthesis (the conversion of light energy into "chemical energy") requires adequate light energy at particular wavelengths Oh yeah, when making your next lamp selections ignore lumens/lux-- focus on how much PAR a light produces. https://fluence.science/science-articles/horticulture-lighting-metrics/
  19. 1 point

    I need a strain for depression

    Seems useful.
  20. 1 point
    i will recommend to all my friends and fam
  21. 1 point

    curing your medicine

    I guess if you wanted to jack up the humidity to exactly 75% before taking it back down to 60-65% range, that would be one path to that destination. Me, I just tape a few of those moistened cotton pads (the kind my wife uses to remove makeup) to the bucket lid, toss in a hygrometer and seal it up for a day. Easy peasy.
  22. 1 point

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Let me know if this is the wrong place to ask but what do you advise in how to speed up my trimming? In reality I am doing a “test-trim” to just get an early sample and I am sslllooooooooowwwwwwww at it. Thank you!
  23. 1 point

    curing your medicine

    Until the humidity in the bucket drops slightly below 65%....from the jacked up mid 70s. It can take days, and can be repeated if the hay odor is not all gone, or even if I obtain weed that looks good but was poorly cured. Oh yeah, by opening the bucket each day your are doing that burping thing, so sometimes I will leave the lids off the buckets for a few hours then seal them up. One 5 gallon bucket I usually fill it about 2/3 full (slightly more than a pound) and will shake it slightly (reduce clumping) before opening (burping). I shy away from the digital hygrometers, as they are usually inaccurate and cannot be adjusted. I prefer the cheapo ones from China, via Amazon--a few bucks each and easy to calibrate using the salt slurry in plastic bag technique and adjust the dial to 75%. https://musicsorbonline.com/faqs/hygrometer-accuracy-test/ Hope this helps.
  24. 1 point

    Thanks EK!!

    Grow bags were donated by @papaw49 & @tumbleweed The TW 8 seeds also came from @tumbleweed You are very welcome. TW8 (blue lime pie x white nightmare)
  25. 1 point

    A follower of ours asks..~

    As an alternative to mmj, try a tea of California Poppies and passion flower. A friend of mine that I suggested this to days is a life saver.