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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/12/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Moved into 5g buckets, DWC, Cutting Edge 3-part nutes, starting PH 6.0
  2. 3 points
    Some of the 73 micron ice water extract from her
  3. 2 points
    Well done!! Amazing quantity of flower from such a small area!! I see that you are still a fan of White Nightmare......
  4. 2 points
    Final pics from when chopped a week ago, 9.5z dried in 2x4 tent.
  5. 2 points
    Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Matter of preference, I prefer observing 5% amber on indica dominant plants (best lab numbers), but if the plant is harvested at the moment amber first appears the buds look fresher (and a wee bit smaller) with little to no "dark hairs". If one wants more THCA (as opposed to delta 9 THC) then harvest prior to amber. The last batch of Cherry Cobbler was harvested with 5% amber and lab results were: 27.3% THCA and 2.29% THC (delta 9), 31.3% total cannabinoids. The last batch of Purple Punch was harvested with less than 3% amber (a lot less) and lab results were: 22.0% THCA and 0.826% THC (delta 9), 23.6% total cannabinoids . When labs convert THCA to an equivalent THC (delta 9) they use a 87.7% factor, so total THC = [(THCA x 0.877) = THC (delta 9)] On the flipside, in my garden buds bulk up and extra 10-20% if I wait until 5% amber--rather than pull at the first sign of amber.
  6. 2 points
    Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Foliar feeding? Rainwater usually has a low ph and can contain particles (dust) that may or may not be beneficial to cannabis. One must remember, cannabis plants are "accumulators", they excel in absorbing and accumulating chemical compounds from soil--perfect for phytoremediation. Remember Chernobyl? Yep, pot vs nukes and pot wins. Hence I filter the well water I use for my garden and, oddly as it may seem, I use municipal water (which contains chlorine) to hold my cuttings in water before popping them in plugs. Well water has a higher level of bacteria causes the stems to get mushy.
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    First, I squeak when I walk (tight ass) and since I have more time than money--I must always balance my genetic defect: I am both perfectionist and a connoisseur of fine things; that said let's discuss benefit over cost. On one extreme--if one waters a containerized plant just shy to the point of runoff, then the possibility of grow medium dry spots is greater (water flows vertical with gravity--and will water tension will cause it to flow horizontal). Now let's swing the pendulum to the opposite side: if one waters excessively, then goodness is being leached away and if the runoff sits int he saucer, then the grow medium will become anaerobic . Somewhere in between is the Goldilocks answer (not too much, not too little, but just right). The best test is for you water same sized pots with your grow medium and compare the results when using different water quantities. Here's is what I did, took a #5 plastic container made 2x2" square cutout windows along the sides, lined the inside with clear plastic and observed what happens with different watering techniques. As I adjusted my grow medium ingredients, I would observe how the water moved inside the container. Watering just until runoff began to dribble caused half the grow medium to remain dry. Watering until excess runoff caused complete saturation and leaving the water in the saucer caused the grow medium at the bottom center to never dry and had the lowest root growth. Watering until 10-20% runoff caused the grow medium to be 75% wet...and when I let the runoff to wick back to the grow medium I observed the bottom portion of the grow medium to be wet while the top surface (1") was dry. Watering with runoff does seem to create more "tunnels" and crevices within the grow medium, some smarter people suggest these become pathways for roots. So, what would I do--pack a container with grow medium, water the grow medium like you normally do, wait about half hour and then flip the container upside down, remove the container and observe the grow medium. Notice how the moisture is not even. Fast forward to today. I use a combination bottom wicking (layer of orchid bark at the bottom of the container) and target 10-20% runoff, and allow it to be absorbed. Results, I have roots growing out of my drain holes...btw I changed to those grow bags instead of soft sided fabric grow pots, which I changed a few years ago after decades of using hard sided plastic containers. Best answer will always be the Goldilocks solution...what works "just right for you".
  9. 2 points
    Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Regarding runoff: It is best to water any containerized plant to the point where there is 10-20% runoff. I water my plant with half gallon of water (64oz) then I expect to see 6-12 oz of water in the saucer. Is it best to remove the runoff? Yes. If you are wicking from the bottom, then the above rule DOES NOT APPLY. Different rules.
  10. 2 points
    Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Sorry for being AWOL for the past week or so, but life can be a blur in the fast lane. For a simple "crawling critter spray" that works on ants, fungus gnats, springtails, water beetles, etc...and not harmful to pets or wee ones, try this concoction: For 1 gallon: 2.5 ml Pyrethrin (5%) 7.5 ml of Neem Oil (biodegradable organic pesticide) 8 oz of Diatomaceous Earth (I prefer foodgrade variety: Fossil Shell Flour (FSF) as it is sourced from fresh water sources) Pour half the water in a container, add ingredients in order listed, and upon dumping the DE, immediately cover container for a 30 seconds or so (don't want to breath silica diatoms), then mix well and add water to the 1 gallon mark. MIx well and use a heavy duty chemical type spray bottle. Shake continuously to prevent the DE from separating. Modes of Action: Pyrethrin induces a neurotoxic effect Neem induces a ovicidal and larvicidal effect DE (amorphous silica gel) absorbs oils and fats found in the critters cuticles (causing them to dry out and die) and the diatom's sharp edges slice and dice the critter to pieces. Combining both Pryrethrin and Neem with DE provides me with an excellent synergistic critter spray. I recall root aphid study where Neem and DE did nothing when used separately, but ranked first when the two were combined. Similar results with Pryethrin and DE...Pyrethrin half life nearly doubled when mixed with diatoms. Don't mind the light powdery overspray as it will harm nothing and can be swept/mopped up later (if you want, but I don't). Great for ridding kitchen ants too--spray the outlets, holes, cracks and enjoy months of ant free kitchen. Hope this helps.
  11. 2 points
    Fungus gnats are not a problem themselves but are a sign of too much water. Let them dry out a bit. Root Aphids on the other hand are a problem, deal with them by putting at least an inch of course sand over your soil so they can't get into and out of the roots.
  12. 2 points
  13. 2 points
  14. 2 points
    definite variation between the plants there, looking at the leaves, but yea, could still be the same genetics or not
  15. 2 points
    popeye!

    Fishing in 2020

    Yeah fishing sure will teach u some patience and appreciation hahahaha but its rewarding here's a couple custom painted lures I just got yesterday cant wait to get them on the water the bluegill one will be getting redone but he wanted me to have the first one as well!
  16. 2 points
    That my friend is a question of certain perplexity. Perhaps it falls in the "Goldilocks Solution" (not too hot, not too cold, but just right), or is it strain related, or related to growing style....hmm. For years I did the perpetual harvest thing with a harvest of a dozen plants every 10 days or so) and, shocking, I experimented. I submit it can be "strain specific"; some strains became killer potency pods (aka sugar buds) when vegged for ridiculously longer than usual (super mature grandmas) and some were best when young (rob the cradle for best numbers). And it also can be growing style, aggressive training (LST bending, defoliating, topping, etc....or all of the above. All different destinations with a shared goal. Which is the most efficient path? Some measure efficiency by counting dollars, others measure it by counting hours. Then those of us the squeak when we walk (tight ass), its both. Now to answer the question, is there a "big qualitative difference in the smoke quality by making them flower earlier or younger". From what I experienced in my garden and observed other gardens, "early or younger" effects yield, not much in quality. But there is a difference between "sweet 16" and "old flapy tit nanny". Sweet 16 buds are hard and tight, while nanny buds are problematic, but can have more complexity in flavors and aromas (aka stink). If it takes a year to veg a plant to 4', then "Houston we have a problem". If it takes 2-3 months to veg a 4' plant with lots of branching spurs--then stand in line behind me, you have arrived. I think there is a correlation with "harvest weight" and the "number of bud sites". Although plant structure is genetically designed, with appropriate training (defoilation, pruning, topping, bending, wrapping, taping, wiring, etc) a small plant can be trained to increase bud sites, sometimes by a goodly amount. Long answer to a short question, sorry. Let's blame the long answer on a few innocent hits of a fresh Cherry Cobbler bud, followed by shot of Pendlelton Whisky,f with a chaser of Breaker double IPA.....but the path you seek lies in solving this riddle, "how do I increase the number of bud sites on a sweet 16 plant".
  17. 2 points
    Not at all, how long you flower them does make a difference, make sure you wait to chop until fully developed.
  18. 2 points
    popeye!

    Fishing in 2020

    Got oug recently for some fishing on the santiam river
  19. 2 points
    Its all good. If growing great cannabis was easy/not complicated, then everyone would be doing it to the tens. Imo, providing a few of my personal recipes and shining light to a "non-cannabis" agricultural publication about foliar feeding (avoiding bro-science and stoner logic), I thought would be the best and simplest and best way to introduce an old and proven technique to someone unaware of the magic of foliar feeding. Cut and paste from https://www.smart-fertilizer.com/articles/foliar-feeding/ UNDER WHICH CONDITIONS SHOULD YOU USE FOLIAR FEEDING? Under certain conditions, foliar feeding has an advantage over soil applications. Limiting conditions – A foliar feeding is recommended when environmental conditions limit the uptake of nutrients by roots. Such conditions may include high or low soil pH, temperature stress, too low or too high soil moisture, root disease, presence of pests that affect nutrient uptake, nutrient imbalances in soil etc. For example, micronutrient availability is greatly reduced in high soil pH. Under such conditions, foliar application of micronutrients might be the more efficient way to supply micronutrients to the plant. Nutrient deficiency symptoms – One of the advantages of foliar feeding is the quick response of the plant to the nutrient application. The efficiency of nutrient uptake is considered to be 8-9 folds higher when nutrients are applied to the leaves, when compared with nutrients applied to soil. Therefore, when a deficiency symptom shows up, a quick, but temporary fix, would be applying the deficient nutrient through foliar application. In specific growth stages – Plants require different amounts of nutrients in different growth stages. It is sometimes difficult to control the nutrient balance in soil. Foliar applications of essential nutrients during key stages can improve yield and quality. Hope this helps.
  20. 2 points
    You're doing it! To help in training and support, I've used pipe cleaners and electric wire (14ga) to position branches where I want them. And when its time remove fan leaves, I would not remove more than 20-25% at a time. Some now and some later is what I would do.
  21. 2 points
    Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Yes, when I do seed runs, I am able to determine sex by day 42 after seed germination while everyone is in veg. I start on day 36 and by day 42, task is done. Occasionally there will be a few stumpers so, for these I take a cutting from the top (keeping the bigger "mama" plant) and after it roots put the baby under 12/12 photoperiod and let nature tell me the sex. Some of the undetermined ones were AC/DC (herms) which explains the difficulty. I buy one or two of these each year. Under $5 and they work for me, maybe it's because I like dark roast coffee--black and the occasional caffeine jitters makes it difficult to hold a larger magnifier steady. Ahh, with these tiny magnifiers, I have to put my face right into it (real intimate), but it works for me--even after a double expresso. Some smart people say a plant can be re-vegged (veg --> 12/12 flower --> 18/6 veg) without a problem, I disagree. One of the variables the can alter a plant's genetics is environment, as when a plant responds to an environmental change. In Science speak: Stress-responsive genes and their subsequent introgression or overexpression within sensitive crop species can change a cultivars genome (aka GMO).
  22. 2 points
    Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    I examine the area near the plant stipule (the "v") between days 36 and 42 after germination and focus on identifying pistils with white (never green) hairs.. Female parts show 4-6 weeks (before day 42) and are less confusing to identify. Examine the for pistil shaped formations with 1 or 2 white hairs peeking out of the pistil. Notice the shape of the pistil is long and not stubby like the male part (ace of spade). Male parts show 3-4 weeks after germination and are sometimes confusing to identify with great certainty. You are looking for a growth that resembles the "ace of spades"--no white hairs. Practice make perfect. BTW, photos were lifted from other websites.
  23. 2 points
    Got some old WhiteNightmare (f) beans I made to sprout, started 3 and 2 showed tails. (A couple of weeks earlier I started 5 old TW8 beans and not a single one sprouted)
  24. 2 points
    Day 69, 4/23 harvest Profile View of whole plant And the gang drying And since this is the last Zookies run....
  25. 2 points
    Backdoor

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    1 cuft of anything is about 7.5 gallons. Three 5 gallon buckets will hold 2 cuft. Black absorbs heat better than white or colored buckets. 2 bags of soil, 3 black buckets (with lids), fill em and set buckets in a sunnier spot on porch for 3-4 months. You're good to go for August/September transplanting. Just a thought.😷👊

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