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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/18/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Thank you, @BCandyQueen , for the hand made gifts. You are so sweet. I love the candle. Please feel free to reach out and buy some from our friend and member @BCandyQueen
  2. 2 points
    Ahh thank you so much ! It’s definitely all I use is my own soap !! Thank you 😊
  3. 2 points

    curing your medicine

    This old guy appreciates sharing secrets that work.
  4. 2 points

    curing your medicine

    I subscribe to the 65/65 rule. Target environment is darkness at 65% humidity and 65° F with a goodly amount of air circulation.. Chlorophyll is the thing that can make a delicious bud to become "pitui". Some swear that flushing plants that were grown using organic principles is the the key. I disagree. The thing that separates the men from the boys is drying/curing (period). When one uses organic principles, flushing is not needed--unless you subscribe to stoner logic (then follow bro science, as it is always irrefutable). Slow and easy is what works for me--longer the better. If speed, haste, fast and "prematurity" (premature withdrawal) is employed, then you will be blessed with that god awful hay smell (too fast of a dry). My dry time ranges between 7-12 days, while 3-5 day dry scares the shit out of me. OK, what can I do to remove the hay thing? Believe it or not, I have had great success with a simple trick of re-hydrating the vegetative matter then "re-drying it" slow and easy at 65/65. My method of re-hydrating is to jack up the humidity, then re-dry it slow and easy. Place buds in a air/water tight container (I use 5 gallon food grade buckets with Gamma lids to achieve air/water tight seal) and suspended above the buds but below the Gamma lid inside the bucket I tape (blue painters tape) either a moistened paper towel or better yet, try those cotton pads our ladies use to remove makeup, then toss a hygrometer on top of the buds and seal it and check it every 24 hours or so. When the humidity increases to 70%, then do the traditional curing burping thing, until it drops to 65°. Regarding using those Bovida styled humidity packs, please suspend them above your herb--and never let them come in contact with your flowers. Tossing them in a canning jar mixed with your buds is the worst thing you can do, imo. Experience has taught me buds that come in contact with the humidity packs degrade faster, can generate a (cough cough) harsher smoke and can change the bud's texture. Cigar aficionados never allow the humidity packs to touch cigars...maybe they know something we don't. So, my vote is a food grade 5 gallon bucket with an air/water tight Gamma Lid for the perfect curing vehicle; no off odor and perfect cure everytime. If you must use those humidity packs (which are reusable when dried out) DON'T EVER LET THEM COME IN CONTACT WITH YOUR WEED. Just saying.
  5. 2 points

    curing your medicine

    Yes this is normal @Tentoes1962 what your smelling is the chlorophyll breaking down keep the plants hanging for about 3 weeks or until you can pinch the buds and you smell the terps from the plants and not the chlorophyll when you get to that point then trim and jar it up if u jar it to early the chlorophyll will try to break down in the jars and then u will get that smell stuck in the buds I've seen it happen way way to many times I usually leave my plants hanging 3-4 weeks now days
  6. 2 points
    Purple Power

    RIP Speckles

    RIP Speckles, 2/27/18 to 9/9/2020. She died as a result to the fire set a few blocks from my house on Weds. She was an endangered breed, Speckled Sussex. I raised Speckles since she was 2 days old. She, like all of my pets, are my babies. It doesn't matter if they are a dog, cat, or chicken, I love and spoil all of them more then I did for my human ones. Speckles laid every day and was one of my winter layers. She was one of my lap hens, that would enjoy pets while telling me what's going on in the flock. Some times Speckles would lay an egg on my lap. She'd follow me around the yard while talking up a storm demanding pets. When she'd molt, her feathers would have more white tips then before. Her sisters and the hen that helped to raise her (Feisty) miss her very much. Speckles has been gone for a few days now and they are still looking and calling for her. I know there is a chance that Feisty will go broody once she relies that Speckles is gone as she has done this in the past. I'm researching endangered breeds and thinking of getting one each: Speckled Sussex. Delaware, and 55 Flowery hen. The question is if where I get my chicks is still standing and have them. +5
  7. 2 points
    Well done!! Amazing quantity of flower from such a small area!! I see that you are still a fan of White Nightmare......
  8. 2 points
    Final pics from when chopped a week ago, 9.5z dried in 2x4 tent.
  9. 2 points

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Matter of preference, I prefer observing 5% amber on indica dominant plants (best lab numbers), but if the plant is harvested at the moment amber first appears the buds look fresher (and a wee bit smaller) with little to no "dark hairs". If one wants more THCA (as opposed to delta 9 THC) then harvest prior to amber. The last batch of Cherry Cobbler was harvested with 5% amber and lab results were: 27.3% THCA and 2.29% THC (delta 9), 31.3% total cannabinoids. The last batch of Purple Punch was harvested with less than 3% amber (a lot less) and lab results were: 22.0% THCA and 0.826% THC (delta 9), 23.6% total cannabinoids . When labs convert THCA to an equivalent THC (delta 9) they use a 87.7% factor, so total THC = [(THCA x 0.877) = THC (delta 9)] On the flipside, in my garden buds bulk up and extra 10-20% if I wait until 5% amber--rather than pull at the first sign of amber.
  10. 2 points

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Foliar feeding? Rainwater usually has a low ph and can contain particles (dust) that may or may not be beneficial to cannabis. One must remember, cannabis plants are "accumulators", they excel in absorbing and accumulating chemical compounds from soil--perfect for phytoremediation. Remember Chernobyl? Yep, pot vs nukes and pot wins. Hence I filter the well water I use for my garden and, oddly as it may seem, I use municipal water (which contains chlorine) to hold my cuttings in water before popping them in plugs. Well water has a higher level of bacteria causes the stems to get mushy.
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  13. 2 points
    First, I squeak when I walk (tight ass) and since I have more time than money--I must always balance my genetic defect: I am both perfectionist and a connoisseur of fine things; that said let's discuss benefit over cost. On one extreme--if one waters a containerized plant just shy to the point of runoff, then the possibility of grow medium dry spots is greater (water flows vertical with gravity--and will water tension will cause it to flow horizontal). Now let's swing the pendulum to the opposite side: if one waters excessively, then goodness is being leached away and if the runoff sits int he saucer, then the grow medium will become anaerobic . Somewhere in between is the Goldilocks answer (not too much, not too little, but just right). The best test is for you water same sized pots with your grow medium and compare the results when using different water quantities. Here's is what I did, took a #5 plastic container made 2x2" square cutout windows along the sides, lined the inside with clear plastic and observed what happens with different watering techniques. As I adjusted my grow medium ingredients, I would observe how the water moved inside the container. Watering just until runoff began to dribble caused half the grow medium to remain dry. Watering until excess runoff caused complete saturation and leaving the water in the saucer caused the grow medium at the bottom center to never dry and had the lowest root growth. Watering until 10-20% runoff caused the grow medium to be 75% wet...and when I let the runoff to wick back to the grow medium I observed the bottom portion of the grow medium to be wet while the top surface (1") was dry. Watering with runoff does seem to create more "tunnels" and crevices within the grow medium, some smarter people suggest these become pathways for roots. So, what would I do--pack a container with grow medium, water the grow medium like you normally do, wait about half hour and then flip the container upside down, remove the container and observe the grow medium. Notice how the moisture is not even. Fast forward to today. I use a combination bottom wicking (layer of orchid bark at the bottom of the container) and target 10-20% runoff, and allow it to be absorbed. Results, I have roots growing out of my drain holes...btw I changed to those grow bags instead of soft sided fabric grow pots, which I changed a few years ago after decades of using hard sided plastic containers. Best answer will always be the Goldilocks solution...what works "just right for you".
  14. 2 points

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Regarding runoff: It is best to water any containerized plant to the point where there is 10-20% runoff. I water my plant with half gallon of water (64oz) then I expect to see 6-12 oz of water in the saucer. Is it best to remove the runoff? Yes. If you are wicking from the bottom, then the above rule DOES NOT APPLY. Different rules.
  15. 2 points

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Sorry for being AWOL for the past week or so, but life can be a blur in the fast lane. For a simple "crawling critter spray" that works on ants, fungus gnats, springtails, water beetles, etc...and not harmful to pets or wee ones, try this concoction: For 1 gallon: 2.5 ml Pyrethrin (5%) 7.5 ml of Neem Oil (biodegradable organic pesticide) 8 oz of Diatomaceous Earth (I prefer foodgrade variety: Fossil Shell Flour (FSF) as it is sourced from fresh water sources) Pour half the water in a container, add ingredients in order listed, and upon dumping the DE, immediately cover container for a 30 seconds or so (don't want to breath silica diatoms), then mix well and add water to the 1 gallon mark. MIx well and use a heavy duty chemical type spray bottle. Shake continuously to prevent the DE from separating. Modes of Action: Pyrethrin induces a neurotoxic effect Neem induces a ovicidal and larvicidal effect DE (amorphous silica gel) absorbs oils and fats found in the critters cuticles (causing them to dry out and die) and the diatom's sharp edges slice and dice the critter to pieces. Combining both Pryrethrin and Neem with DE provides me with an excellent synergistic critter spray. I recall root aphid study where Neem and DE did nothing when used separately, but ranked first when the two were combined. Similar results with Pryethrin and DE...Pyrethrin half life nearly doubled when mixed with diatoms. Don't mind the light powdery overspray as it will harm nothing and can be swept/mopped up later (if you want, but I don't). Great for ridding kitchen ants too--spray the outlets, holes, cracks and enjoy months of ant free kitchen. Hope this helps.
  16. 2 points
    Yeah, fungus gnats. Generally means you are keeping things TOO wet. diatomaceous earth will work, but only as long as it stays dry. It clumps up when it gets wet. I was growing in buckets, so I top treated the soil with sand (or DE) and watered from the bottom.
  17. 2 points
    Fungus gnats are not a problem themselves but are a sign of too much water. Let them dry out a bit. Root Aphids on the other hand are a problem, deal with them by putting at least an inch of course sand over your soil so they can't get into and out of the roots.
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  20. 2 points
    The two white thread-like hairs are your friend, she is a she. But we could always see a "he-she" later. Variation of cultivars (phenotypes) is common. About 150 years years ago, a European monk named Mendel experimented with the common pea. Through selective cross breeding over many generations he observed certain characteristics appeared in offspring (aka recessive, dominant traits) as discrete units, as opposed to the blending of the traits of the parents, the theory popular at the that time. More importantly and applicable to your situation he discovered a 3:1 ratio of inherited traits. When he cross pollinated pea plant that produced yellow pea seeds with one that produced green peas seeds, (yellow+green parents), their offspring (F1) were always yellow seeds but the following generation (F2) were consistently mixed, 3 yellow and 1 green. And this relationship would continue for successive generations. So, 3:1 means that 3 will be alike, 1 will be different, no milk man and not a sister of from a different father--rather its simply genetics. https://www2.palomar.edu/anthro/mendel/mendel_1.htm Hope this helps.
  21. 2 points
    definite variation between the plants there, looking at the leaves, but yea, could still be the same genetics or not
  22. 2 points
    Hash of yore was made from Charas or pressed dry sieve. https://graywolfslair.com/index.php/diy-cannamed-production/9-4-extraction/9-4-1-hand-rub-charas https://graywolfslair.com/index.php/diy-cannamed-production/9-4-extraction/9-4-2-dry-sieve
  23. 2 points
    Day 69, 4/23 harvest Profile View of whole plant And the gang drying And since this is the last Zookies run....
  24. 1 point

    Comet Neowise

    That’s too bad.... If you’re really intent and if you have a pair of binoculars, you can scan the sky for it and probably still spot it even with all of the light pollution you have. I will try and get a phone camera shot of it as it gets darker tonight.
  25. 1 point
    Purple Power

    Mycorrhizae and the roots ~

    Mycorrhizae 101: How Fungi and Plant Symbiosis Can Help a Cannabis Grow Thrive Sponsored by Hydrodynamics International February 28, 2018 As legislation around cannabis evolves throughout North America, backyard gardeners and professional farmers alike are growing more plants every year. This explosion of interest in cannabis cultivation has been accompanied by renewed attention about how to get the most out of cannabis crops large and small. Mycorrhizae supplements are among the tools now being put to work in both gardens and grow-ops. But what’s behind this symbiotic success story, and how does it help cannabis plants to thrive? What Are Mycorrhizae? Mycorrhizae are a class of fungi that thrive in symbiotic relationships with the root systems of plants. This partnership is common throughout the plant kingdom, and is often integral to the health of crops around the world. It may even have been key to the initial spread of plants on land—evidence suggests that mycorrhizal relationships date back more than 230 million years, to when plants were still working to make the transition from sea to land...... https://www.leafly.com/news/growing/mycorrhizae-101-fungi-marijuana-plant-symbiosis