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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/24/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Moved into 5g buckets, DWC, Cutting Edge 3-part nutes, starting PH 6.0
  2. 3 points
    Some of the 73 micron ice water extract from her
  3. 2 points

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Sorry for being AWOL for the past week or so, but life can be a blur in the fast lane. For a simple "crawling critter spray" that works on ants, fungus gnats, springtails, water beetles, etc...and not harmful to pets or wee ones, try this concoction: For 1 gallon: 2.5 ml Pyrethrin (5%) 7.5 ml of Neem Oil (biodegradable organic pesticide) 8 oz of Diatomaceous Earth (I prefer foodgrade variety: Fossil Shell Flour (FSF) as it is sourced from fresh water sources) Pour half the water in a container, add ingredients in order listed, and upon dumping the DE, immediately cover container for a 30 seconds or so (don't want to breath silica diatoms), then mix well and add water to the 1 gallon mark. MIx well and use a heavy duty chemical type spray bottle. Shake continuously to prevent the DE from separating. Modes of Action: Pyrethrin induces a neurotoxic effect Neem induces a ovicidal and larvicidal effect DE (amorphous silica gel) absorbs oils and fats found in the critters cuticles (causing them to dry out and die) and the diatom's sharp edges slice and dice the critter to pieces. Combining both Pryrethrin and Neem with DE provides me with an excellent synergistic critter spray. I recall root aphid study where Neem and DE did nothing when used separately, but ranked first when the two were combined. Similar results with Pryethrin and DE...Pyrethrin half life nearly doubled when mixed with diatoms. Don't mind the light powdery overspray as it will harm nothing and can be swept/mopped up later (if you want, but I don't). Great for ridding kitchen ants too--spray the outlets, holes, cracks and enjoy months of ant free kitchen. Hope this helps.
  4. 2 points
    Yeah, fungus gnats. Generally means you are keeping things TOO wet. diatomaceous earth will work, but only as long as it stays dry. It clumps up when it gets wet. I was growing in buckets, so I top treated the soil with sand (or DE) and watered from the bottom.
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    The two white thread-like hairs are your friend, she is a she. But we could always see a "he-she" later. Variation of cultivars (phenotypes) is common. About 150 years years ago, a European monk named Mendel experimented with the common pea. Through selective cross breeding over many generations he observed certain characteristics appeared in offspring (aka recessive, dominant traits) as discrete units, as opposed to the blending of the traits of the parents, the theory popular at the that time. More importantly and applicable to your situation he discovered a 3:1 ratio of inherited traits. When he cross pollinated pea plant that produced yellow pea seeds with one that produced green peas seeds, (yellow+green parents), their offspring (F1) were always yellow seeds but the following generation (F2) were consistently mixed, 3 yellow and 1 green. And this relationship would continue for successive generations. So, 3:1 means that 3 will be alike, 1 will be different, no milk man and not a sister of from a different father--rather its simply genetics. https://www2.palomar.edu/anthro/mendel/mendel_1.htm Hope this helps.
  7. 2 points
    definite variation between the plants there, looking at the leaves, but yea, could still be the same genetics or not
  8. 2 points
    Hash of yore was made from Charas or pressed dry sieve. https://graywolfslair.com/index.php/diy-cannamed-production/9-4-extraction/9-4-1-hand-rub-charas https://graywolfslair.com/index.php/diy-cannamed-production/9-4-extraction/9-4-2-dry-sieve
  9. 2 points

    Fishing in 2020

    Yeah fishing sure will teach u some patience and appreciation hahahaha but its rewarding here's a couple custom painted lures I just got yesterday cant wait to get them on the water the bluegill one will be getting redone but he wanted me to have the first one as well!
  10. 2 points
    That my friend is a question of certain perplexity. Perhaps it falls in the "Goldilocks Solution" (not too hot, not too cold, but just right), or is it strain related, or related to growing style....hmm. For years I did the perpetual harvest thing with a harvest of a dozen plants every 10 days or so) and, shocking, I experimented. I submit it can be "strain specific"; some strains became killer potency pods (aka sugar buds) when vegged for ridiculously longer than usual (super mature grandmas) and some were best when young (rob the cradle for best numbers). And it also can be growing style, aggressive training (LST bending, defoliating, topping, etc....or all of the above. All different destinations with a shared goal. Which is the most efficient path? Some measure efficiency by counting dollars, others measure it by counting hours. Then those of us the squeak when we walk (tight ass), its both. Now to answer the question, is there a "big qualitative difference in the smoke quality by making them flower earlier or younger". From what I experienced in my garden and observed other gardens, "early or younger" effects yield, not much in quality. But there is a difference between "sweet 16" and "old flapy tit nanny". Sweet 16 buds are hard and tight, while nanny buds are problematic, but can have more complexity in flavors and aromas (aka stink). If it takes a year to veg a plant to 4', then "Houston we have a problem". If it takes 2-3 months to veg a 4' plant with lots of branching spurs--then stand in line behind me, you have arrived. I think there is a correlation with "harvest weight" and the "number of bud sites". Although plant structure is genetically designed, with appropriate training (defoilation, pruning, topping, bending, wrapping, taping, wiring, etc) a small plant can be trained to increase bud sites, sometimes by a goodly amount. Long answer to a short question, sorry. Let's blame the long answer on a few innocent hits of a fresh Cherry Cobbler bud, followed by shot of Pendlelton Whisky,f with a chaser of Breaker double IPA.....but the path you seek lies in solving this riddle, "how do I increase the number of bud sites on a sweet 16 plant".
  11. 2 points
    Not at all, how long you flower them does make a difference, make sure you wait to chop until fully developed.
  12. 2 points
    btw, I think I ended up flipping them 5-6 days ago...
  13. 2 points

    Fishing in 2020

    Got oug recently for some fishing on the santiam river
  14. 2 points
    Its all good. If growing great cannabis was easy/not complicated, then everyone would be doing it to the tens. Imo, providing a few of my personal recipes and shining light to a "non-cannabis" agricultural publication about foliar feeding (avoiding bro-science and stoner logic), I thought would be the best and simplest and best way to introduce an old and proven technique to someone unaware of the magic of foliar feeding. Cut and paste from https://www.smart-fertilizer.com/articles/foliar-feeding/ UNDER WHICH CONDITIONS SHOULD YOU USE FOLIAR FEEDING? Under certain conditions, foliar feeding has an advantage over soil applications. Limiting conditions – A foliar feeding is recommended when environmental conditions limit the uptake of nutrients by roots. Such conditions may include high or low soil pH, temperature stress, too low or too high soil moisture, root disease, presence of pests that affect nutrient uptake, nutrient imbalances in soil etc. For example, micronutrient availability is greatly reduced in high soil pH. Under such conditions, foliar application of micronutrients might be the more efficient way to supply micronutrients to the plant. Nutrient deficiency symptoms – One of the advantages of foliar feeding is the quick response of the plant to the nutrient application. The efficiency of nutrient uptake is considered to be 8-9 folds higher when nutrients are applied to the leaves, when compared with nutrients applied to soil. Therefore, when a deficiency symptom shows up, a quick, but temporary fix, would be applying the deficient nutrient through foliar application. In specific growth stages – Plants require different amounts of nutrients in different growth stages. It is sometimes difficult to control the nutrient balance in soil. Foliar applications of essential nutrients during key stages can improve yield and quality. Hope this helps.
  15. 2 points
    You're doing it! To help in training and support, I've used pipe cleaners and electric wire (14ga) to position branches where I want them. And when its time remove fan leaves, I would not remove more than 20-25% at a time. Some now and some later is what I would do.
  16. 2 points

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    Yes, when I do seed runs, I am able to determine sex by day 42 after seed germination while everyone is in veg. I start on day 36 and by day 42, task is done. Occasionally there will be a few stumpers so, for these I take a cutting from the top (keeping the bigger "mama" plant) and after it roots put the baby under 12/12 photoperiod and let nature tell me the sex. Some of the undetermined ones were AC/DC (herms) which explains the difficulty. I buy one or two of these each year. Under $5 and they work for me, maybe it's because I like dark roast coffee--black and the occasional caffeine jitters makes it difficult to hold a larger magnifier steady. Ahh, with these tiny magnifiers, I have to put my face right into it (real intimate), but it works for me--even after a double expresso. Some smart people say a plant can be re-vegged (veg --> 12/12 flower --> 18/6 veg) without a problem, I disagree. One of the variables the can alter a plant's genetics is environment, as when a plant responds to an environmental change. In Science speak: Stress-responsive genes and their subsequent introgression or overexpression within sensitive crop species can change a cultivars genome (aka GMO).
  17. 2 points

    Starting a small indoor grow.....

    I examine the area near the plant stipule (the "v") between days 36 and 42 after germination and focus on identifying pistils with white (never green) hairs.. Female parts show 4-6 weeks (before day 42) and are less confusing to identify. Examine the for pistil shaped formations with 1 or 2 white hairs peeking out of the pistil. Notice the shape of the pistil is long and not stubby like the male part (ace of spade). Male parts show 3-4 weeks after germination and are sometimes confusing to identify with great certainty. You are looking for a growth that resembles the "ace of spades"--no white hairs. Practice make perfect. BTW, photos were lifted from other websites.
  18. 2 points
    Got some old WhiteNightmare (f) beans I made to sprout, started 3 and 2 showed tails. (A couple of weeks earlier I started 5 old TW8 beans and not a single one sprouted)
  19. 2 points
    Day 69, 4/23 harvest Profile View of whole plant And the gang drying And since this is the last Zookies run....
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  24. 2 points

    plum crisp

  25. 2 points