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Hash of yore was made from Charas or pressed dry sieve. https://graywolfslair.com/index.php/diy-cannamed-production/9-4-extraction/9-4-1-hand-rub-charas https://graywolfslair.com/index.php/diy-cannamed-production/9-4-extraction/9-4-2-dry-sieve

Yeah fishing sure will teach u some patience and appreciation hahahaha but its rewarding here's a couple custom painted lures I just got yesterday cant wait to get them on the water the bluegill one will be getting redone but he wanted me to have the first one as well!

That my friend is a question of certain perplexity. Perhaps it falls in the "Goldilocks Solution" (not too hot, not too cold, but just right), or is it strain related, or related to growing style....hmm. For years I did the perpetual harvest thing with a harvest of a dozen plants every 10 days or so) and, shocking, I experimented. I submit it can be "strain specific"; some strains became killer potency pods (aka sugar buds) when vegged for ridiculously longer than usual (super mature grandmas) and some were best when young (rob the cradle for best numbers). And it also can be growing style, aggressive training (LST bending, defoliating, topping, etc....or all of the above. All different destinations with a shared goal. Which is the most efficient path? Some measure efficiency by counting dollars, others measure it by counting hours. Then those of us the squeak when we walk (tight ass), its both. Now to answer the question, is there a "big qualitative difference in the smoke quality by making them flower earlier or younger". From what I experienced in my garden and observed other gardens, "early or younger" effects yield, not much in quality. But there is a difference between "sweet 16" and "old flapy tit nanny". Sweet 16 buds are hard and tight, while nanny buds are problematic, but can have more complexity in flavors and aromas (aka stink). If it takes a year to veg a plant to 4', then "Houston we have a problem". If it takes 2-3 months to veg a 4' plant with lots of branching spurs--then stand in line behind me, you have arrived. I think there is a correlation with "harvest weight" and the "number of bud sites". Although plant structure is genetically designed, with appropriate training (defoilation, pruning, topping, bending, wrapping, taping, wiring, etc) a small plant can be trained to increase bud sites, sometimes by a goodly amount. Long answer to a short question, sorry. Let's blame the long answer on a few innocent hits of a fresh Cherry Cobbler bud, followed by shot of Pendlelton Whisky,f with a chaser of Breaker double IPA.....but the path you seek lies in solving this riddle, "how do I increase the number of bud sites on a sweet 16 plant".

Not at all, how long you flower them does make a difference, make sure you wait to chop until fully developed.

btw, I think I ended up flipping them 5-6 days ago...

Got oug recently for some fishing on the santiam river

Its all good. If growing great cannabis was easy/not complicated, then everyone would be doing it to the tens. Imo, providing a few of my personal recipes and shining light to a "non-cannabis" agricultural publication about foliar feeding (avoiding bro-science and stoner logic), I thought would be the best and simplest and best way to introduce an old and proven technique to someone unaware of the magic of foliar feeding. Cut and paste from https://www.smart-fertilizer.com/articles/foliar-feeding/ UNDER WHICH CONDITIONS SHOULD YOU USE FOLIAR FEEDING? Under certain conditions, foliar feeding has an advantage over soil applications. Limiting conditions – A foliar feeding is recommended when environmental conditions limit the uptake of nutrients by roots. Such conditions may include high or low soil pH, temperature stress, too low or too high soil moisture, root disease, presence of pests that affect nutrient uptake, nutrient imbalances in soil etc. For example, micronutrient availability is greatly reduced in high soil pH. Under such conditions, foliar application of micronutrients might be the more efficient way to supply micronutrients to the plant. Nutrient deficiency symptoms – One of the advantages of foliar feeding is the quick response of the plant to the nutrient application. The efficiency of nutrient uptake is considered to be 8-9 folds higher when nutrients are applied to the leaves, when compared with nutrients applied to soil. Therefore, when a deficiency symptom shows up, a quick, but temporary fix, would be applying the deficient nutrient through foliar application. In specific growth stages – Plants require different amounts of nutrients in different growth stages. It is sometimes difficult to control the nutrient balance in soil. Foliar applications of essential nutrients during key stages can improve yield and quality. Hope this helps.

You're doing it! To help in training and support, I've used pipe cleaners and electric wire (14ga) to position branches where I want them. And when its time remove fan leaves, I would not remove more than 20-25% at a time. Some now and some later is what I would do.

Hey Greywolf, thank you so very much! In particular I am interested in the use of “vestal virgins....” quoted here from your blog: “There were later versions using leather aprons and tales of vestal virgins running naked through the flowering cannabis plants, and having the resin scraped from their lithe young bodies...” My question is, does Amazon carry “vestal virgins” in quantity and is there a money back guarantee on their purchase? Seriously though, the two links you provided are fine responses and they are giving me all kinds of ideas.... I really think that a lot of people do not realize the fantastic thing that is hash, or kief and they are surely missing out. For me it is easy to see why you see so many references to “manna from heaven” and hyperbolically pleasurable illustrations of the hash smoker in the literature of yore. They were not exaggerating. Hash is THAT good!

Let's ask @Graywolf

Awesome. boy, That website is packed with knowledge.

Graywolf's Lair, LLC cannabis blog site is now open and enjoyed over 1000 hits our first day. Oriented toward support to not only medical cannabis patients, but commercial processing as well, with guest authors. Bon appetite! https://graywolfslair.com/

Congrats GW. ♥

Will you include extraction discussions using food grade solvents (ethyl alcohol)? Particularly, processing at low temperatures (below 100°) to capture all the cannabinoid "a's" (THCA, CBGA, CBNA, etc.) I know ethyl alcohol is low yielder (maybe 40 grams per pound of flowers) and is not very efficient, but my focus is 100% medicinal and second guessing which solvents FDA will prescribe when medicinal cannabis products are regulated by the Feds. Past sessions of reading chicken bones, tea leaves, crystal ball says: "hydrocarbon solvents will not be permitted for medicinal products"; besides the purging process (heat) destroys the "a's" and terpenes.

Sweet! They make ME hungry just looking at them! I assume they have BBs or rattles in them? It looks like you are targeting bass with them? My wife and I have taken to the idea of finding “off-the-map” places to go fishing as well. Oregon seems to be a LOT more amenable to that kind of fishing than in the state we’re from.

No, they are still under the pair of LUSH Herbal Vador 2x LED

It's because I know how big they will get and I will run out of space

Yes I have attached a picture of the plants’ new homestead. Now I am making a new batch of 3-watt, blurple LED strings to go along with the 5000k CFLs.

Unfortunately no luck that day

Hey TW! So is your reason that you are about to flip them to flower because you know how big they will ultimately get after flowering-out and have space/harvesting issues? Or is there some other reason like flower smoking quality, or some other reason?

Yes I did enjoy it. There are tide-pools everywhere where you can see all kinds of sea life. Next time I will probably explore the coast south of Yachats, for better surf-fishing venues.

All right Papa, you stepped in it, now show us how its done. Please respond to the OP's statement with less technical stuff. It's your turn to share and help out a beginner. So please strut your stuff and Pay It Forward.😁

I like to remove as much of the fan leafs and non sugar coated bud leaf as possible the couple days leading up to harvest. By doing that before hand, when you chop your babies all you have to do is chop and hang. Depending on what grow technique I used for the grow, I will remove the plants from the tent and then remove any lights or cords that might be in the way. I then wipe everything down with a disinfectant to make sure it is as clean and sterile as possible. I then hang whole plants for about 2 days. Then I will remove stems and hang for around 5 days. I keep the tent as close to 60% and 60* as possible. I keep my exhaust fan on and adjusted to the rate of the R/H, to low and I slow it down or shut it off all together, to high and I speed it up and open more vents. I like to remove the nugs and do a final trim right before the stems will crack instead of bend so that I keep some moisture in them. My mentor used to place the fresh trimmed nugs in a clear plastic tote with a humidity gage in it so that he could monitor it until he was able to keep the lid on for 24hrs at a R/H of 60% then he would place in jars loosely and check everyday for 3 days then a week then not until he needed them. I get my jars ready by placing a humidity pack (62) in each one and close the lid a couple days before I plan on using them, that way they are ready to go when I am. When I am done with the final trim, I place them on drying racks for about 12 hrs or until crispy then place them in the jars. I check them at 12hrs then again at 24. After that last check, with the humidity packs I can pretty much just leave them be for a couple days where I will check them one last time and then just seal them up for long term storage. The humidity packs make life so much easier and safer that I swear by them and will never try to cure without them again. They take all the guess work out of it and more than pay for them selves at 98 cents each.

Before Oh really? ...go on...Google search for cannabis roots. You will find lots of info.Here is one article about it. Personally I would hesitate to ingest it, as there are a lot of alkaloids which could potentially be bad to be ingesting much of, but people do it. As a topical application however, this is not a concern.http://sensiseeds.com/en/blog/getting-roots-cannabis/ Before I started doing living organic soil I used to do exactly that and save my root balls to make root balm even sent a batch out to the community to test out and got lots of good feedback but leaving the roots intact in living organic soil gives the micro organisms in your soil something to feed on in between transplants cuz you ultimately want to cut one plant down and then plant a new one right next to the old stump and then the micro organisms switch over to the new plant and help it thrive