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  1. 2 points
    Here is a picture of our Daisy....
  2. 1 point
    Hello and welcome to Pay It Forward Ask us for help if you need it
  3. 1 point
    Tentoes1962

    Current Fishing Prospects

    Would anyone mind sharing what kind of fishing is “on” right now? I was planning to take my wife and I to the coast (around yachats(? sp?) since she likes the area to relax and chill and I have done some surf fishing there too. The trip is mostly for her (she is a middle school counselor and has a crazy, hard job) but I would like to try some fishing. I like to go to the coast to fish when the seas are calmer and this weekend is NOT looking to be calm so I was wondering what other fishing options might be on right now. I guess i could could always go to the fish market and buy some and arrive at the hotel and say, “Damn! Look what I snagged, baby!....man it was a fighter!!!”
  4. 1 point
    Gee thanks Popeye! I will try to get on to the chat room tonight and touch base with everyone...
  5. 1 point
    Hello so a few years ago I was doing an indoor, stealth grow using Fox Farms Ocean Forest, using an unknown bag-seed strain (from seed) under 5000k CFLs. After a few months of veg, I isolated the six females and removed all of the males. The health of all of the plants was very good at this time (~ 2 months from seed). Then two plants began to develop black spots on the leaves while still in veg. I did a google search and many posts pointed to root disease issues. I wanted to do things as “organically” as possible, so I began to use Neem oil in my watering regimen. I would add the recommended amount in water to treat “root rot” (a bacterial infection of the roots, I believe?). I used NO other fertilizers nor additives until this problem arose. After this, the new growth fan leaves had NO black spots at all and the plants eventually flowered and harvested (of course the young, diseased fan leaves were culled and these plants were harvested and really made a fine end-product). It is really incredible what home-grown Cannabis can produce! Since then I have intended to use Neem oil in all of the soil at the dosage recommended by Neem oil packaging instructions. Would anyone care care to give their opinion on this idea? In other words, I intend to use some Neem oil in ALL of the soil I use BEFORE I grow anything in it, to avoid the black spot issue. I know I am getting in trouble with the natural soil folks out there, but I don’t have the ability to cultivate my own organic soil, so Fox Farms is what I will have to make-do with until later. Thank you everyone!
  6. 1 point
    Hahaha it's not that what you did was dangerous at all it seems like you did everything u could to do the root drench properly and I commend u for that. We are always learning as growers it's the second we think we have nothing else to learn that we know we are in trouble truely ignorance is not bliss in growing. But you have a open mind and a willingness to learn new things so I think you will do just fine just dont feel afraid to ask for help I'm still constantly learning and working to educate myself as well every year I try to improve on what I learned the previous year. I simply want to help others with knowledge and experience I have learned over time and still am changing things I need to update my clone thread cuz I've changed that as well and I started to dry and cure different as of last year so as I said it's a constant learning process for all of us! You got this man!
  7. 1 point
    EDDIEKIRK

    Thanks Popeye, you rock1

    Thanks Popeye, you rock1
  8. 1 point
    Thank you for the feedback, Popeye! I really do! As I get older, the more I realize all the stuff I don’t know and anything to make me a better grower is always appreciated. I guess that I thought that by growing indoors I wouldn’t have nearly as many bug/fungus mungus/jungle rot problems, and the appearance of black spots on my plants made me resort to using it as a drench. I am living proof that while knowledge is good, a little knowledge can be dangerous! I thank you again!!
  9. 1 point
    Hey buddy so let's talk a bit about neem oil I absolutely support the use of Neem Oil as IPM for your plants and that's what I use myself as well but I do not recommend using it as a soil drench. What I do instead is use neem meal and I will make a tea that is brewed for less then 24 hours usually and water with that u will have some oils from this but not nearly as much as using the neem oil and also there are a few other benefits to doing the soil drench with neem meal instead of oil the meal will also provide some nutrients to the plants as well the kelp I usually use, the combo can really help fight back any bad bugs u may get in your soil. Also another reason I dont recommend use of neem oil in soil drench is possible toxicity while this isn't extremely common it can definitely occur and when it does it's not pretty so I always recommended using the oil for leaf surface and the neem meal for the soil/roots. Side note karanja is a cousin to the neem tree and is another oil u can alternate between with neem oil for some pretty fantastic results and the karanja smells good in my opinion kinda like dandelions lol I hope this helps you out a little bit I will also try to make a little more extensive section about neem in my organic thread here soon which might provide a bit more information about neem for you as well
  10. 1 point
    Moved them into cubes, lets see if they sprout now...
  11. 1 point
    I will try and be more mindful, thank you Eddiekirk.
  12. 1 point
    Hi so in the evening chat room it was brought up what type of lights I was using and the image with this post shows an incomplete DIY CFL setup (24” x 24”) and I plan to use multiple ones for a typical grow. You are seeing the “guts” of it but in operation, there will be another piece of wood with individual cutouts for each bulb. I went with CFLs instead of T8s because awhile back, when I came up with the idea, I couldn’t find any UVb lights in a T8 form factor- that is the sole reason I went with CFLs instead of T8s. There are 4 fans (1 on each corner) that pull air from inside (to pull air away from the plants and into the bulb area then out) and blow out to keep any heat from the CFLs away from the plants.... I intend to use this one for starting seeds then move on to T8s for the biggest part of veg, then on to flower with maybe some LEDs....dunno yet.
  13. 1 point
    OK, just popped some new beans, TW8-3, will get the journal active again, miss taking pictures and posting them (plus the addictive growing)
  14. 1 point
    Hi all: So the wife and I have moved to a duplex rental property and I have the “grow-itch”, but I want to keep it on the down-low from my landlord. I am thinking of using the attic, since I really have no other alternative. It is a “typical” A-frame roof with, probably, four feet at the center and tapering down to the eaves. I have only used soil in the past, but to achieve any substantial height in the plants, I feel like I will need to “go hydro” so the roots don’t take up so much of the available height...... What do you all recommend for the type of “hydro” grow I should pursue? Sorry for my ignorance of terminology, but I am leaning toward the kind that sprays nutrient solution on to the roots. I want to avoid as much weight as possible, so “deep water culture” (I think?) wouldn’t be the way to go. I am in to electronics stuff (Arduino stuff) so I am not worried about automating most all of the lighting, watering or aerating. I plan for it to be totally enclosed with plywood and ventilated with air from the living space, NOT the attic. Would anyone care to make recommendations on this idea? Max grow height for the plants will only be about 3 feet, but I’m sure I’m not the first to harvest plants that small....
  15. 1 point
    I really think that this is eventually going to be a light for young plants only.....I have ideas for some all-aluminum framed lights using 2’ T8s in combination with some 3-watt LEDs with the LEDs being used for flower. These as lights are really nothing to be proud of....
  16. 1 point
    Yeah same here in the valley whether was tough this year was really hoping for a better go this time around but it is what it is I think the plan is to construct a green house during the off season it will be small be it will hopefully be able to extend my season in the valley a little father
  17. 1 point
    Here's a look at the Zkittlez from Earlier in the Season you can see the Radiant Health!
  18. 1 point
    This is my favorite picture this season and it was right at harvest time! This is Rudeboi OG!
  19. 1 point
    Hey guys long time no see sorry about that sometimes life gets busy! Well another year is in the bag and this year we did things differently I actually dug out my grow space this year and filled it with layers of straw and soil that I made last year same soil I made for these posts and I ran my plants in it this year it made a huge difference having the plants tapped straight into the ground this year and not stuck in pots! However the whether this year was rough so wasnt a ideal season I will be getting some more information going on this forum here soon and explain a but more about how to set up a outdoor grow that after initial set up will cost u next to nothing to maintain each year! I'll post one of my favorite pics of the year!
  20. 1 point
    EDDIEKIRK

  21. 1 point
    EDDIEKIRK

  22. 1 point
    goodmenspdx

    My way of rooting clones fast.

    My videos cannot load here, but you can check out some of our work on ig. When cloning/rooting, it's not rocket science. There's no 'one way is the best way'. The fact is, the majority of growers struggle to root their clones in a timely fashion and sometimes destroy them. Experience plays a huge factor but once you understand how to root your clones in your environment it should be like clockwork. I've seen people do it all, score the stem, shave the bottom, alcohol/bleech/burn/prx their blade, cut it 90 an from above or below a certain node, take it from healthy mothers.. the list goes on.. It's not that serious. I say this because I know my plants. I've made countless mistakes and done side by sides to see which methods work best under my conditions. Genetics. Personally, it doesnt matter where you clone from. There are certain stains that root fast, and some don't. I personally keep strains that root fast, finish fast, good structure and hardy. I stay away from clonex or any synthetics during this stage. (I go hard on syths during flower) It actually takes longer for roots to form when I'm using it (DYOR) The difference is night and day. I simply use tap water. No RO, and I don't check my PH or PPM's. Been there done that over a decade ago. I just finished a handfull of trays and cloner a few days ago. Picture and below from the cloner. 100% success rate everytime. No dome, I don't score my stems, there's a lot of things I don't need to do because I know my plants. I know some of my plants take literally 12 to 14 days to root. You should definitely be near your babies as much as possible, so you can diagnose the problem at hand. One thing I do religiously is cut the fan leaves. You don't need too, the hippies will give you some science BS on it, but I simply do so I can fit more clones next to eachother. I also don't like using humidity domes. Algae, diseases, mold, mildew and susceptible to the plants. I don't worry too much about the leaves. This is a common mistake a lot of growers make. They worry too much about the color deficiencies on their plants and hit it with synths. Just worry about your roots. That's the only thing you should be worried about. If your roots are well taken care of, your whole plant will thrive. Have a clean environment. This is a big one. I've seen so many disasters by different growers. They are simply lazy. My environment is usually spotless. I am constantly cleaning, leaving no room for potential errors. In the end, 10 different growers will give you 10 different answers and swear by their methods. These are technically just weeds, they will grow in the harshest environment and hardy plants. I've grown commercially back in 2006 in a 30 light flowering warehouse all, 1000 watt HPS, no air cool, mini splits, just fans and air out, 100+ degrees, but thriving plants. They got water when needed and were taken care of. Hopefully this helps.
  23. 1 point
    I personally prefer to hang my plants and let them dry before I start the trim and then do a manicure and then into jars for curing I used to wet trim but don't do that anymore and haven't for a while dry trim is best in my opinion
  24. 1 point
    HARVEST AND POST-HARVEST PROCESSING (PART 3) CURING From Home-Grown Cannabis Academy CONTENTS 1) INTRODUCTION So you’ve finally harvested your plant. You think the process to make your own top quality Cannabis has finished. Well… think again. We’re here to inform you that you are just about halfway there. After you have correctly harvested and dried your crop, the real work begins to obtain the highest quality of your harvest: the curing process. The most important post-production step is the curing process. If you’ve never heard of ‘curing’, you are not alone. Maybe you know the process under another name: ripening. Just like a ‘Chateau’ leaves its wines to ripen in barrels or a Scottish distillery ages its Whiskey, you’ll have to cure your harvest. The Cannabis inflorescences need time to reach their full potential. WHAT IS CURING? We cure Cannabis to obtain and preserve the best aroma and taste possible and to make sure the bitter tasting chlorophyll (green color) is broken down. This makes the Cannabis very smooth, tasty and ready for consumption through inhalation. As soon as the inflorescences are harvested, the curing process begins. For the first couple of weeks, the Cannabis inflorescences will be drying and curing simultaneously. When the harvest is almost fully dry, the relative humidity of the air surrounding the flowers has to be slowly brought down to a specific level. This will allow further curing without the risk of molds infecting the inflorescences during storage or your harvest becoming too dry. When an inflorescence is fully dried without being properly cured, the bitter chlorophyll is ‘locked’ inside the cells and cannot be broken down further. This will give the inflorescence a bitter taste that is very hard and near impossible to get rid of. The specific level of humidity is different for each strain but will generally be somewhere between 55 and 65%. Most strains are cured with a relative humidity of 62-65% to bring out the best aroma’s and retain the best structure of the inflorescence. There are many ways you can cure your harvest. Each strain has a specific method which will bring out the best aromas. Some strains are fairly easy to cure, but other strains can really lose their magic if you choose the wrong method or cure for too long. It is very important to remember that curing is a strain-specific process and is dependent on the configuration and presence of the,....................
  25. 1 point
    Getting the Most Out Of Cannabis for Chronic Pain Tolerance can dull the effects of your medicine. By: Mary Schumacher May 11, 2018 When you live in chronic pain and use medicinal marijuana to combat it, often you need your medicine most of the day. This can lead to a tolerance to the point that, though still finding relief, you may feel like the effects have dulled or that you just can’t smoke enough to get where to need to be to function. Cancer patients, people living with nerve damage, back injuries and all other types of chronic pain also run into this problem on the pharmaceutical side of things, the problem being that if you continue to increase your dosage of narcotic pain killers, they simply become killers. Not so with cannabis..... https://thefreshtoast.com/cannabis/getting-the-most-out-of-cannabis-for-chronic-pain/

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